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Why would the oil light come on if the brake fluid was low? Surely that would put the handbrake/ brake warning light on?

Been discussed to death. You will get two answers:- Either A) it's not possible to do it correctly yourself. The ONLY people that can do it are the traders on here. Or B) yes, of course it is possible. As long as you have the correct tools (Renault OE) and the instructions - you'll be fine...

Have you tried measuring the gap between the sill and the ground? That'll give you an idea if it is lower. Most cars seem to sit a bit lower on the drivers side tbh, at least FWD anyway. Oh yeah, wtf does 'led in it' mean?!?

I have recently swapped from pilot sport 3's to hankook v12's and have noticed no difference in grip an I'm running just a bit more power and torque than a standard 1*2

Id say you're doing something wrong if they are fuzzy. The iPhone camera (at least the iPhone 6) is a very good camera for a phone and is far better than the digital camera I have from a few years ago. Upload an example of one of the photos so we can see what you are getting.

In what way do you think it'll effect things 10-15 years down the line? Any damage inflicted by the extended servicing will already have been done. Not that it's likely to have done all that much anyway. any links to the car in question?

Wouldn't put me off personally. Buy on current condition, not on something that happened in the service history a few years ago.

Hostile? I didn't realise I was. Not meant to come across that way. I agree that in the case of a track car, or a car that only does 6k a year it makes sense. But for someone that does 12k a year in a daily driver then it doesn't. I probably should have given more stipulation in my original...

Who mentioned track use? I didn't and nobody before my post had either.

lol at all the people changing at 2 - 4k! All you are doing is wasting money! It's a Renault Clio, not a bloody Ferrari!

You sure it's tappets? Could be dephaser on it's way out?

Yes, you'll need it painting. Ideally it'll want blending in too I would think. Cost wise, you get what you pay for. If I got change from £300 I'd be surprised (for a decent job)

Do you not have a digital camera that you could use? Or even a mobile phone? Failing that, Argos have plenty of small cheap 'action' type cameras. They start at about £30. I have one of these somewhere at home http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/2493653.htm that would work for what...

It peaked at 953 on the road in 2005, currently 726 still taxed and 122 SORN So rare, but not as rare as you heard (according to HOWMANYLEFT)

I think he's taken it with him. He's blasting down the strip in it as we type.

No. Just don't do it. All that will do is mask the problem. If it's tappy (above the normal F4R noises) then you need to have it looked into. Do you know what oil it has in at the minute?

lol at 70 being boring but 80 being fine.

It'll be fine. Drive at whatever speed/revs you like (within reason of course, you don't want the French 5-0 on your tail) A sustained 4-5k revs won't do any harm at all.

Well they are cheaper than the prices quoted at the start of the thread, which is good.

Renault Parts Direct don't seem to have increased prices yet so you might be able to get a bargain from them if you need a parts now/soon http://renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/

@STRBramley Awesome pics mate. Which camera/lens did you got for in the end?

50/50 on costs is a bad idea. What if they smash it up, you've got to pay half the cost. I'm out.

lol - I missed that bit. I got half way though reading about tyres and s**t and made my reply. oops.

before spending on the car, how about some tuition so that you can get the best out of the car. I would think that would be the easiest way to make you faster around the track. I know you aren't in the UK, but did you ever see the episode of Top Gear where Jackie Stewart shaved 20 seconds off...

I wasn't suggesting you do it yourself, I just got a bit carried away with my typing. The CS masses would faint if that was suggested as it just physically isn't possible for a mere mortal to get the timing right on an F4R. :laughing: The belt on the 197 is SLIGHTLY easier as access is a bit...

Nope - it's a nice simple job. Just make sure you have some type D to fill it back up and ideally something to catch the coolant that you lose.

Why will you be paying through the nose? If you go to one of the specialist you'll be paying the same price for the parts anyway. None of them add much if any margin on top of the price they pay. The issue with supplying your own parts is that as you are the one that bought them, the warranty...

Still crap upload though. I'd happily drop to 100mb for download and have 20+ upload.

So you think the full £100 an hour goes to the mech? He'll be on £15 / hour tops, the rest pays for the building, tools, heating, lighting etc etc. It's called overheads.

If they are using genuine parts then they are undercharging in my opinion.