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Thats good news then.
I have to say I feel very lucky as I have just carried out a first start (after rebuild) on my Williams engine, it started first time and apart from a few coolant leaks which were easy to sort, its all gone well so far.
I have just realised that I have a convienient memory...
Just read this thread from start to finish, what a great read. I love your attention to detail, especially since as noted from your early posts some of these parts may be coming off again once you start racing .
BTW its never OCD its always close attention to detail . You can never have too much...
Just seen this old post of yours.
I have been wanting to put some different tyres on my 172 Cup as I just dont like the Rain Spott 3’s that it came with, the side walls are just too soft for me.
I have a spare set of Williams wheels that I had sort of forgotten about, that would be a great way...
Thanks, Nice image .
Tell you what though, doing a proper resto (as opposed to an external tart up) is such hard work. If I had known at the start what the project was going to entail, I probably wouldnt have done it.
Thanks, Yea, getting very real now.
Its actually very satisfying now bolting clean refurbished parts onto the car
Starting the rebuilt engine up for the first time was very nerve wracking though.
Thanks, I have to say, I’m very pleased with the paint. The guy who painted it was worried when I went to collect the car, as he knew I wanted the paint spot on. He did good.
Mind you, I did some pretty good preparation pre paint
Interesting thread, I’m just on the final stage of a 3 year restoration of my Williams 1. It should have been 2 years but I wasnt happy with the paint, so sanded it back and had it done again.
Car before I dismantled it
Car at the most light weight stage
Close to where it is now, rebuilt...
I have read this thread from start to finish during this week and to be honest I feel drained.
I, like others who have posted, cannot believe how;
1/ You have stuck with this project - I would have canned it off ages ago.
2/ How nice you are about people who have let you down so badly - I...
Yea, no problems at all.
Although as has been posted on this site before, the top mounts get quite a bit of stick and will inevitably start to wear out. I suppose the ultimate answer is to install solid top mounts and have the trade off of increased NVH.
Not sure if this helps you, but the Gen Ren top mounts that I received from RPD recently were a modified version of what was removed from the car. Rather than having the small nut which secures the spring cup holder and then another bolt securing it to the suspension top mounts, with the new one...
Hi there, I have recently done the same procedure on my car and I like you torqued up these bolts and had to slacken them off to make adjustments, You will be fine with this.
The manual mentions checking the stretch on the crankshaft pulley bolt if you wer reusing it, nut since you have used new...
A 195/50 16?
To be honest its not come up in any searches that I have tried in that size.
I also checked out the Yoko web site and spoke to D Tweeks, if I can buy in that size.....I'm in :up:
Running std fitment 195/45 16.
I know that I could put a 205/50 16 AD08r on it, but would rather keep to std fitment size....I'm a fussy bugger I know :wink:
Put the Whiteline swaybar on today.
Amazing! it was a 30 minute job which actually took about 30 mins!
Nothing snapped, broke, sheared or was rusted solid. Mind you I have pretty much gone through the car now so there is not much that can go wrong really.
Only had a short test drive, feels a lot...
Those threaded M4 holes are definitely for pushing the pulley off the end of the crank. I did try this initially but I didnt have and suitable bolts which had strong enough threads to take the strain. I'm sure that suitably hardened bolts would push the pulley off the crank.
Its a real pain...
Yea, feels better mid and great at the very top. I even hit the rev limiter by accident on my test run....I usually change gear before I get near the limiter.
Just need to sharpen up the handling now, the Rainsport3 are doing me no favours at all.
Just realised how upload images so here goes;
When I stripped the cam covers off I found that everything was timed up correctly from the last cambelt change
Replaced the camshaft oil seals
I borrowed the proper tools to get the timing right
Changed the water pump too, but TBH it looked...
The way I removed the pulley was to lock the crankshaft using a crankshaft locking tool or 8mm drift.
I used an aluminium paint stirrer with some holes drilled to accept the small bolts that screw into the pulley.
I basically then started turning the pulley clockwise and anticlockwise, initially...
Maybe a freshen up of the engine mounts will help, the new mounts certainly took the vibration out of the dogbone. At tickover, the dash used to vibrate, now it ticks over like a std car.
I reckon that if you can move the engine back and forth using the two lift points, you will benefit from...
The main OS mount was classed as OE uprated, this is the item number in EBay 262024522433,
The gearbox mount was a Febi Bilstein one again EBay item number 271994627772.
The engine had fore and aft movement in it before the new parts, its very solid now, but interestingly the harsh vibrations...