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I once forgot to tighten the pinch bolt holding the ball joint in. Knocking sound going over rough ground. Worth double-checking.

Reducing the fluid level generally works well, and Redline power steering fluid is excellent. You can find it here: Redline Power Steering Fluid. Currently on offer. There’s a guide on how to change the power steering fluid as well here: ClioSport Guide.

Yep, and the VDO part number is (A2C59513667)

I did what Brigsy did. Box on the chest, then bench press it up, get a bolt in. The second time around, I took the engine out, much easier.

Yeah, been there with my Black Gold 182, luckily, it was the track car. Frog tape works well.

Cheers. It’s a case of needs must these days, given the shortage of new parts. 4th clean pass, so pretty chuffed tbh. I was surprised to see the refrigerant recorded as recovered, since it was 100% depressurised. Likely a default setting in the machine’s program. Yes, it’s a complete pain, as...

Very common for them to rust behind the canister. Same process as before. Wire brush down to metal and build back up with degreaser, hydrate-80, primer, 447/UB, then a lick of paint. Picture of mine when I did under the arches and it’s still holding out nearly 4 years on.

You can use DINITROL 4941 and Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 together, but they’re for different purposes. To do the job right: Pop the skirt off and scrape off all rust and loose paint with a wire brush. Get to the bare metal Degrease it well. Hit it with Hydrate-80 to kill the rust, let it dry (24...

A faulty injector is a strong possibility. If it’s clogged or malfunctioning it’ll cause a misfire, rough running and an engine light. The intermittent flashing generally happens when the engine is under load. Could be something else, but you’ve eliminated plugs, leads, coil pack so it’s the...

Corrected myself. Having a blonde moment.

Upper engine mount - next to the timing belt Upper gearbox mount - below the battery tray Lower gearbox mount - dogbone ? Edit - gearbox mount sits on the subframe. My bad.

I'll give you your 'dew' - you're spot on 😜 Grass creates its own microclimate - like sending your car on a spa day without the warmth or drying time, and only rust on the menu. Carpet is another misstep, as it also holds moisture, especially outdoors, and even to a lesser degree inside a...

It's marginally better on mine now, but I'm not really an engine perfectionado, so I thought it was a lot worse than it actually was. Ultimately, it's just a sticking plaster, so I'll address it when I absolutely have to. There are some incredibly knowledgeable people on these forums who are...

Yeah, it's probably down to regular washes, whereas it's just creeping around when they're doing nothing. Corrosion is the big one, since it's the hardest to keep on top of. Engines can be refreshed relatively cheaply, but once these things start to rot, they become a real liability - unless...

I ran Group N timing, an EFI map and an ITG intake on my 182 track car. It transformed its performance on the circuit, although I’d be hesitant to run it on a road car due to how lumpy it was at idle — it used to cut out regularly. Most of the chaps doing TDT have it on their cars.

Yeah, I'm learning more and more about these F4R engines every day. When I think about my first Black Gold road 182, it got hammered and never used a drop of oil. Same for my first dedicated track 182 — that thing got smashed for four years straight. The engine in that was brilliant. I used to...

Appreciate all your help, Jon — you must get fed up with me messaging you, haha. Engine internals aren't my strong point, but I guess I'm learning as I go. I obsess over it far too much, so I tend to notice and worry about the smallest things.

Lovely jubbly! It's always nice to have a former Renault Master Technician checking over your cars as well. On the engine front, I’ve been running some 10W-40 oil - cheers @NorthloopCup - and it’s definitely improved oil consumption to the point where it’s now negligible. It seems the valve...

MOT Time! 🤞

Ignore all of the above - giving out duff info. Part number is 7703602282 for bumper screw. M6 x 20 mm x 1.0mm Spoiler screws 7703017108 They’re a Hex bolt iirc - M6 x 1.0 mm thread pitch, 16 mm length

The one that fixes the bumper to the wing bracket. Is that what you meant?

Off the top of my noggin it’s an M10 x 17mm x 1.5 thread. NLA - 7703016567 from Renault. Autodoc sell them, but cheaper from your local fasteners no doubt.

Oh s**t, I’m going to crash. Well, at least I’ll die knowing my wheels will still be shiny.

My friend works for the Bremsen Technik Group and supplied me with Brembo Sport HP2000 brake pads. As mentioned above, they’re poor quality, cheap Chinese knockoffs. Avoid them.

I’ve heard he’s opening up a museum.

Lovely track for Clios. Looks great.

🤣 That hard, short braking into Barcroft before Sunny In is a proper scary moment. There used to be a gate there years ago, and I’ve been through that a few times. If the car isn’t straight and stable as you enter Barcroft, braking is definitely going to give you problems. No better feeling...

Don’t lift through the Jim Clark Esses - keep your foot flat through the first two corners. Then ease off slightly just before turning into Barcroft to keep the car settled. Be cautious not to carry too much speed into Hawthorns. If you go in too hot, you'll run wide, which compromises your...

As above, they’re not standard. They have a torsion beam running through the middle but it’s main purpose is to absorb shocks and maintain ride height. Out of curiosity are you just using the car on the road or track?