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Don't waste your time mate would be my advice. There's more weight in a Mars bar than you'd save from cutting metal out or drilling holes. I'd look at changing stuff like the bootlid, bonnet and doors for fibreglass items if your really wanting to save weight. Costly though.

That's because the rod end didn't measure it with the vvt engaged mate.

I've not seen a 200 head mate so I can't comment. Same casting but different inlet runner cast into the head plus a better designed combustion chamber to reduce shrouding of the valves plus it's fully hemispherical. I'd say the inlet valve would go plus 1mm, maybe a bit more. Maxi evo does...

So is it still running a dephaser or not? If it's on a dephaser you won't feel any issues when turning it over by hand mate.

I agree that the 1*2 hasn't got a good cylinder head design, but the 197 head is far superior. In R3 maxi evo spec they produce 250hp - and that's on the oe inlet manifold. You just need extremely deep pockets to get big hp n/a

Vvt or non vvt 422's? If it's vvt 422's then you need to keep in mind that the dephaser pulley advances the timing by around 16 degrees at around 1200rpm. You can measure as much as you like, but if you don't take that into consideration your fucked all roads round tbh. I'm amazed that you...

@Ant_Smiggy looks like I need to be going faster as well then as I still run with my fog lights in the front bumper! What you think @Martin.? :wink:

If you had no oil pressure issues beforehand I'd stick with the oil pump you've got. Clean it out, check the pressure relief valve plunger moves freely, pack the pump full of grease and run it again. The grease will generate the suction you need to get oil pressure in a fresh engine just in case...

What track we going to then? :tongueout:

I've been out for a long drive today @Ph1 Tom - a collection of items was made and returned back to my house all safe and sound:up:

Need a head to head!

Shed! Lol!

It was! Very! You could use all 3 lanes on the m1 when the boost hit 2 bar!! Lol

I had a mk3 astra gsi with 440lbft of torque that used to enjoy troubling your arms. Sadly it troubled the inner wings and bulkhead and caused them to split! Lol

There's the confirmation then! Thanks for the info. I wouldn't personally bother with all that effort of cutting the plenum open to port it anyway. You'd be better off doing something along the lines of an rs2

Silly question Neil, but have you tried lubricating the bearings on the spherical bearings and the steering arms?

It's an inherent fault in the design of the plenum mate. If you cut it open it might be made better with some porting/smoothing but it's never going to be perfect. It's also not designed for ultimate performance either so you have to make compromises along the way.

Nah it's the plenum that's the issue.

The standard throttle body isn't as much of a restriction as the 1*2 inlet manifold. That's the real enemy tbh.

It's all about how it makes it come on boost mate. It will be slightly more aggressive due to the profile of the inlet cam. The only person I know of that's fitted 197 cams in a turbo motor is chip. He doesn't come on here anymore though, but if you can track him down he will no doubt be able...

Personally mate I'd sell your 197 cams and use the money to go towards the turbo conversion. The standard 172 cams seem to work really well when boosted. If you really want to use the 197 cams, I'd fit the inlet cam and retain the 172 exhaust cam. Obviously the 197 inlet cam would need to be...

Mine will be standard 197 inlet (just ported) ported 197 head, cams and high comp for a net result of around 230hp. Max rpm 8k unless I change to maxi evo spec top end and steel rods and crank. It is doable for not a lot of cash as well. You've just got to be prepared to hold out for the stuff...

Ashford motorsport have a video out there for a 279bhp n/a f4r and I'm pretty sure they've cracked 300+ hp. Not cheap though!

I'm pretty sure that the cupra ones are lug mount whereas the meggy/Clio brembos are radial mount.

Ouch!!

If you get the mapping right and there's no det you'll be fine at anywhere up to 12:1-12.5:1 I'd imagine. It's all about keeping the cylinders cool and having no det though. You'll be running a fine line on a Renault cast piston imo, and that's based on how many f4r's you see that have suffered...

Depends on if your happy to run that compression ratio on a non forged piston I suppose. It all comes down to the mapping.

Your calculations are pretty much bang on mate as from memory they take a 172 up to around 12.2:1

The catcams kit just holds the cams in place and allows them to be timed in as there's no cover there at all. At the horseshoe end there's a adjustable horseshoe that allows you to then replicate the desired cam timing position with the cover on. I've got a cam cover with holes in it that can...

The f4r is a pig to dial the cams in on due to the cam cover holding the cams into the head as well. You need to be able to access stuff and get the dti in there to do it properly and the only option available currently is the catcams kit.