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It's not a straight swap I'm afraid. You need to drill and tap the cylinder head for some of the mounting bolts (1 I think off the top of my head) and if it's the same as a 197 inlet the ports in the manifold are higher up. You need to do some serious porting to make it work. By the time you've...
Hi mate. I'd have to make the call to gripper, but it's whatever's available from them mate. Your probably as well with the lowest one they do as you don't need the top speed.
Lol yeah I can see how your decision was influenced then!!
Ah right ok, so a similar spec to mine then other than you've got itb's. I'd certainly be interested to see what hp yours makes as a comparison for what the R3 spec engine should make.
Ah yeah that's fair enough mate. Whats your engine spec then?
For serious hp you need to be up in the regions of 50+ mm on the bodies due to the size of the inlet ports. You also want around a 7-10 degree taper from the itb to the inlet valves. It all helps with cylinder fill you see.
I'm...
As Martin has said, the safety devices one comes ready to bolt together and bolt in. You have to weld strengthening plates to the shell though where the cage bolts in.
If you get a custom cages or oreca you have to weld them in fully and they come as a load of tubes. The omp comes in 2 options...
Mark fish do safety devices ones and there's a group buy currently on for them on here. You can't see it though as you've not paid the membership.
Others are custom cages, oreca (available from ktec) and omp. I wouldn't trust an eBay one with anything other than hanging clothes off tbh. Just my...
You need to give it a pwm signal, or a digital signal opposed to a analogue signal for the fully variable cam timing. Your ecu should have these outputs.
The R3 engine I'm fitting is just all the running gear into a 1*2 block mate and running on a jc5. Don't have the money or the interest...
I've got a 197 and a 172 cup loom that are spliced together for my R3 maxi engine I'll be fitting. The 197 dephaser solonoid isn't an on/off like the 1*2 is so you'll need the wiring for the cam phase sensor as well. Your better off running it on fully sequential injection too.
You can run it...
If it's classed as a trackday car and has had modifications to enhance its track performance, your home and dry anyway Tom. That's how you get around the airbag issue. ;)
^^^^Assuming that's the same as a jc5 casing, you could potentially use one of the steel reinforcement plates that are available on eBay. It certainly looks like it to me.
I'd imagine that it was running a full custom map to get the very best out of the engine that was installed in the car as opposed to the standard run of the mill map on the 275's from the factory. Everything would've been optimised on that car imo, and the majority of the cars that go for these...
I run 450 fronts and 475 rears. It's not horrendous on the road but I'm not convinced I'd put up with it if it was a road car. You will always have to run a compromised setup when using the car on the road, there's just no getting away from it. The 60/40 combo you've currently got is imo, bang...
Porsche also add fully adjustable everything on the suspension (not just the dampers) and proper trick stuff like titanium con rods though as well tbf.
If you take all that into account the extra £5.5k that Renault charge isn't all that horrendous imo either. You also join a very exclusive club...
Flol I've just clicked on the link and seen they're a uk company!!! I thought it was the one that's in America! Fail! Interested to know why the guys at head office said that 5" was the longest they did. Unless they're motorbike front shock springs. Hmm.
Lol!
Yeah but I doubt the f/g bonnet would be quite as strong if you did trim it down though tbh.
No mate but I'm hoping to hoping to do that soon as I've got a f/g bootlid (that I've lightened even more!! Got 1 kg out of that! ;)) and I'll also be swapping over to f/g doors hopefully. My original...