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Not off the top of my head. I do know that when fitting 172 brakes & hubs onto a mk1 some people have the stubs machined so they fit the mk1 shocks & I think it's something like 2mm off each side

If you're saying it's like that, it means that I'll deffo lose my rag & just set fire to the car 🤣 Sounds like I'm committed to taking the box off..................................yay :cry:

Drilling the holes wont be of any use either, the 172 stubs are thicker than what's in my pic so they still wont physically fit

When going into 5th gear at anything above 40mph I'm getting a lovely little crunch so need to work out a plan to fix it. Is it possible to fix it still in the car or if the box has to come off the car can it still be fixed just from removing the end cap or is it a full blown split the box...

Aaaaahhh the good old days :love: I paid a bit more but my best 1 was having the MOT done in Bristol while the car was in hundreds of pieces in Nottingham 🤣

It used to be £20 but inflation is a b*****d :cry:

I usually spend an extra £30 that sits in the centre console for the tester

The designer is obviously sexually attracted to children

Here's the car I was most impressed with seeing at Bedford today, not seen one for years

On 1st glance I thought it said fetish green 🫣

I spent a good 2 minutes looking at that pic wondering how the f**k you managed to change the colour of it before I finally zoomed in 🤣

That's exactly how I had to remove the old shocks on my Cup in order to fit new ones

Footage of Paul chasing the escaped horses

High comp pistons, ported inlets & 182 manifold + mapping at EFI Parts Everything else is standard including the cams and injectors so it's a bit of a freak

Stuck it on a rolling road, it did alright

Not sure if this is helpful info or not 🤷 I've got forged high comp pistons in mine -standard bore size - standard cams & rods with ARP bolts making 191bhp 168ft/lb I'm used to dealing with mk1's but the F4 rods are a bit beefier in comparison and are basically an upgrade. So they're well up...

That's going to need a donor shell to sort that but I'm more shocked by the fact someone has attempted to weld it up before

It wont be the airbag as you can remove it and it wont put the light on - funnily enough it's not even physically plugged into the car 🤣 It's going to be one of the belt tensioners on the buckle, the control box or the wiring between them at fault, pop the centre console out and you'll be...

It's not the same as a 182 crank as it doesn't have the sprocket for the chain driven oil pump on it. It's only the later versions of the F7R that had the chain driven oil pump

The Clio F7R 700 crank is from the F8Q 1.9 diesel engine The later Mégane F7R 714 & the RS Spider F7R 712 engines have the F9Q diesel crank which is the same as the 1*2 F4R Then you've got the early Mégane F7R 710 but I can't remember exactly what that crank that used but was different to all...

I'd heat it up and also buy this set to get it out https://ebay.us/m/GScHty

He's got those roof trims, it's also a Cup with air con if that's any help Here's his FB profile

I'm going to pick up some bits from someone that's breaking one later today, I can ask for you

Yeah they're back in production now, instantly devalued everyone's that were up for sale for silly money 😂

The sellers other items are worth a look too 👀

Last time I looked they were about £14k +vat and the shafts about £1500-ish +vat for a pair 🤑 Also having the MSUK logbook will add a decent chunk to the price as the safety gear will be fairly new to be in date for racing

Just managed to snap the drivers side handbrake cable and in typical Renault fashion that one is NLA :rolleyes: Does anyone know which pattern part is correct? I remember reading something about certain makes being the wrong length so don't fancy faffing around with trial & error

With yours being a 4 door the chassis number/code will start with B57 but a lot of parts places only list stuff with the 3 door code which starts C57 so that can screw up your search. If you run into difficulty when searching for parts, use the chassis code for the 1.8 16v model which is C57D...

They're not usually listed as retaining clips so that's probably why you're struggling to find them https://ebay.us/m/18TbKz

It sounds like you just need the caliper carrier bracket from a 16v/Williams