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Welcome to Clio ownership, I would suggest buying a multimeter ASAP - you will more than likely get your moneys worth...

Baterry must be fine, I have never seen one. My ph2 keys have always looked like this: I would suggest jumping the switch but you have to close the case to complete the battery circuit 🙈 I think it's quite common as far as broken fobs go This is a good shout, even if it's just some fresh...

It might be a non-OEM (or ph1 specific board then). Both batteries are 3v so if it worked before its probably right tbh. Be interested to find out what it is. if you have a multimeter you can at least check button continuity.

OEM keyfob uses a CR1220*. Might not be your issue, but my microswitch needed re-soldering as the joints had broken. *on a 172 ph2 at least, is a ph1 different?

Seven hours later, the kit was fitted. I'm not convinced this has been done on a standard car before, and I can imagine it being a doddle with the engine out. But I didn't have that luxury so lots of stubby spanners and swearing were used. Getting the pipes off the rack in situ only took an...

First CSF and had a great time, Cadwell was amazing to drive and it was great seeing some familiar faces. If I hadn't of spent seven hours replacing the high pressure PAS line on Friday I probably would have been more chatty... Roll on CSF27!

Even that's in question, but sound.

When is last arrival time tonight for camping?

Unfortunately James couldn't find the stock in time for today so I did some man maths. Pipe is broken, and all the other pipes seem to be on there way out - so is there much point to fixing it just to break again? One 5 hour round trip later I have an Advocult line. And I have an entire night...

With a crows foot, a screwdriver and a hammer I got the pipe undone and replaced the o-ring, and..... It still leaks. More like an uh-oh-ring amiright. On closer inspection it looks and feels like the union has ovaled and won't seat correctly. JMRS is in the town over so I shot James a...

Managed to get a crows foot on it and turn 1-2mm before the tool started to slip Cleaned it all down and started it up, turn the wheel a few times and... s**t. Sub-optimal. Think I will drain the PAS reservoir, undo this fitting and try to clean it plus replace the o-ring. It's not like...

New discs fitted, love the PMS spacers such a nice bit of kit. Will see if I can get a spanner on the high pressure line tomorrow and nip it up.

@Brigsy I couldn't tell you, this is my first 1*2 and never had the pump off 🙈

Cheers @YorkshireKyle appreciate it, under the car as we speak. Might have been a bit wetter than I initially thought

Advice needed! High pressure line coming out the top of the steering pump seems to have a slight weep, and the surrounding area is misted with oil. Does it just need a nip up? Typical it's a few days away from Cadwell. New discs acquired and dashcam hardwired in. As well as figuring the...

From CS Invitational Castle Combe:

Wow, last post was August '25 doesn't time fly. Since then some events and some fixes, starting with Autosolo: This rewarded me with a puddle of PAS fluid as the sensor started to leak, so new genuine sensor went in and redid the old cracked wiring. Then a complete flush with Motul Dexron III...

Vacuum line to the acoustic valve. Needs to be plugged if not in use

It looks like they are coded to the car. From the Renbreakers listing: If your unit is beyond repair, we will supply and program a compatible used replacement unit at the same fixed price.

I would be throwing in a new BCM or sending it to someone to be checked before chasing wiring. Just because it's dry doesn't mean it's not dead. Renbreakers do a MK3 BCM repair or replacement for £40

No experience, but my understanding is only the valve springs need replacing

I don't think the sensor after the cat really does anything, it's the one before the cat that causes issues

You would need someone to redraw it into vector format like .svg or .eps Something like this: Not perfect as I don't know the original font but easy to do and even easier with @Hixle's find. Will get it packaged up into both formats and dm you

Give it a go! Stick a brick/paving behind the chocks if you are unsure and just go slowly. Hopefully it will rise better and you can get the height on the stands, it can be a real chew on without the room to work

In my experience handbrake on only causes issues. As the suspension is locked the rear beam twists down and moves the car while you are jacking. That way the wheels twist and not the chassis. Its not terrible when you lift the first side but I have had the car almost fall off the axle stand...

Handbrake off when you lift. Car moves in weird directions when the wheels are locked. The weight of the car needs to shift to allow the jack to roll under

I have no idea about resistor packs or blowers, but if the blower is working and there is no air it could be a split cog for the airflow selector. In the drivers footwell behind the centre console part there are lots of servos that select the hot to cold, where the air goes etc. These often...

Its just plastic similar to the pov spec ones but with metallic flake Nothing has changed in the year since doing it

Do you leave the handbrake on? Car shouldn't shift while lifting, jack should roll towards the car to compensate for any movement

Elbow Grease Spray / Cream Cleaner + Microfibre and warm water got mine off. Wasn't the easiest or quickest thing to do but I really wanted to keep the metallic finish (that the pov spec interiors don't have)