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The pump primes on the 2nd ignition cycle (no idea why). Turn the key on and off and then back on again, you should hear it prime.

2500 ok for the rear, but in a small caliper with no cooling they get cooked.

The heater matrix pipe pass through it and linked both sides. You'd have to cut it.

Yeah that's them.

Aerocatch themselves or from a trusted source like Demon Tweeks. Too many fakes around.

Green Milwaukee 😂

It's definitely not normal. This is a split second delay when you stab the throttle quickly. Would make heel and toe very difficult on track the way it is.

As you say the belts will go for ages. It's these that will f**k you.

Usually the rectifier diodes which convert the current from AC to DC, when they go bad they act like a two way valve and allow current to back draw. Can actually see some big amp draws with a thermal camera.

Elf is fine

Cup life, no abs 😂

They are by the time you're standing on the brake pedal. Clio is really easy to do, especially with a slightly wider throttle pedal.

As above. With most of the codes being related to abnormal voltage, i'd start with the alternator and battery. Do you know how old those codes are by checking the freeze frame data? They could be old.

Yeah there is, same on the Meganes.

Nice little find of parts there mate.

No VAT 👀

Good old Milltek exhaust, mine always moved after a trackday. Only way i could see it not happening is to v-band every joint.

Assuming you're looking at the dampening crank pulley, the one the aux belt runs off? Get one if it looks rough. As for the actual Megane pulley, it's debatable how much protection it actually gives as it's not that strong of a key. It also makes the timing process a little different in the...

They have the keyway (the slot cut out) but no key in them.

Are you able to drive it? That's best to warm it up.

That's easy to verify as the keyway in the crank should be in the 2 o'clock position between the webbing/casting marks on the block.

Starting it up for 2-3 minutes will be doing more harm than good. Won't be getting hot enough to burn off moisture/fuel in the oil. If the battery isn't too old, whip it out and stick it on the bench in the shed/garage with a charger that does a repair mode and see if it'll recover.

£1200 I think is the ballpark now on these. Depends on garage labour rate.

Tried a leakdown to test for valve leakage?

Bit of a nightmare mate. If you and Chris can't figure it out, no one can 😂

No spacers, stock camber. It was only a tiny amount of rubbing. Ended up running 195 rear and 205 front and that felt like a nice balance. Don't want loads of rear end grip anyway if you want to be quick.

Might be ok. Mine rubbed on the rear with 205 on 7j ET38 2118's during corner on track, no rubbing on the front.

Or telling the apprentice to try and bump start it 😂

All about the blade really. Decent blade for the job will make light work.

Seen people cut cars up with a Milwaukee Sawzall. They do a Super version now.