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ith the PMU16 being able to accept any input to trigger outputs, I was open to do pretty much anything I wanted for the controls. With everything being software based you can build whatever conditions you like. I wanted any critical, reguarly used control on the steering wheel, and the rest...

After the interior was painted, I had my heated windscreen re-fitted (Previously removed from the old shell), and then fitted the rear polycarbonate screen myself. I opted for a Plastics4Performance item, as they are local to me, and come with a black border which looks more like a standard rear...

After getting numerous quotes to prep and paint the interior of the car, most were ridiculous enough to make it obvious the person did not want the job. I also know I would never be happy paying for it then finding parts missed - so I decided to do it DIY with the help of a few people that have...

So much happened and always finding better ways to do things...! Hopefully this will come together quite quickly now, painting the interior this weekend and then I have 4 weeks until its first outing ?

10kg/mm on the front. 12kg/mm on the rear, inboard and linear, not progressive like most coil over kit springs.

For the price range (sub £1k), they are fine and do the job. Although I don't use HSD springs any more... It would benefit from proper suspension, but its just not justified at the moment. It works and the HSDs will stay for now - the next real jump you are talking £2.5k+ for good 2way...

Have to work with what you've got

More time spent working through the list of jobs over the last two weeks - not a lot of pictures but most of it is time consuming work! The front end is now completely built up, with both oil and power steering coolers, making sure to support all four corners and mounting on rubber. The oil and...

Yeah, its not so bad in 4 cyl, the length of the crank amplifies the problem exponentially 4cyl vs 6cyl etc. I removed some weight from the stock M54 crank this time (trigger wheel + mountings that I do not use), and started using the Superdamper. I could probably go a bit more on the RPM, but I...

Yep, thats it! This crank is 89.5mm stroke, 84mm bore, to get the ~3.0 capacity. Great for torque, not so much for revving highly (over square). I'm spinning it to 7300rpm, with the damper, not high in the grand scheme of things, but considering this crank only revs to mid 6's in standard form...

Yeah, well its either many thousands for that, versus a sub £100 kit to fix the oil pump nut issue. The ATI Superdamper was VERY expensive, but not really anything to do with the oil, more so the poor harmonics of the crankshaft... without it I would be stuck at sub 6800rpm in reality!

Nah! Just Me, Adam and Sarah doing both days! I saw one of them has sold out now too

Don't see the point really, for the expense anyway. At the end of the day its a cheap engine to repair and run, not like an S5x. With the oil pump no longer an issue, and running quite a large oil capacity, it will be fine. If it was a 'built' high compression N/A motor I would consider it, but...

So a couple of weeks on, more has been done. Firstly 6 new M8 rivnuts installed into the subframe, allowing the X-brace to be fitted, which acts as more of a sump guard for me. Didn't actually get a picture of it fitted though! I then set about building the engine up, ITBs, ancillaries...

For the past 18 months or so (before the Spa crash) I ran a 'servo delete', with twin AP master cylinders and a modified pedal. Cylinders were mounted in the same place as the servo, with a bias bar, you can probably see it in some of the pictures above. It worked fine, but you have to be right...

Hopefully in the next few days there will be a bit more! Will try and keep on top of it from now on...! To give a bit of context to the above and this years racing - we finished the season with 12 hours at Anglesey for the Race of Remembrance, albeit with many mechanical issues, I still...

I had a browse whilst on the ferry heading back, and found a silver E36 saloon for sale not to far from home. I thought it was worth a look, to see how solid it was underneath, as it was just a 323i SE at the end of the day. It turned out to be one of the most solid E36 I had ever seen...

After a few hours lapping, I got used to the new suspension and spring set up, the car felt the best it ever has. Mid way through the afternoon on the first day I had a low oil pressure warning flash up on the dashboard, so I cut the engine and coasted back in to the pits. Upon investigation...

I've not had much time to keep this up to date in the past 12-18 months, with work, racing and building other things. With 2018 nearly over I thought I would fill this in, and hopefully continue to update as the next chaper unfolds. I will probably end up missing some details with so much...

-3.75 Camber, tiny amount of toe out total, probably a couple of minutes maximum. -2 Camber rear, tiny amount of toe in. Yes, I was previously using an M52 trigger wheel, and it lined up. Yes, you would have an issue if you used standard management, but with standalone you can set up the...

Reliability is the key too...! In 9 races this year only managed 5 signatures due to mechanical issues, and a cancelled round. Luckily only need the one now for Spa in 2019. Good luck with it, you've built the car well. What fuse/relay board are you using in the 205? I've been through a number...

E36 that makes some noise... which is currently being built into a new FIA spec shell.. Honda Civic racing in 750MC this year...

Honda Civic in the 750MC

Made a couple of changes to the spring an front hub setup, to correct the roll centre of the car. Then headed back to Spa last week. It drove significantly better as the track dried in the afternoon. One of the cleaner laps...

All depends on how far you want to go and the budget? I spent a few hours messing in Photoshop, different ideas and things. The car was red, so kept the most complex parts that colour (bumpers, sideskirts, etc). Then took it to a local company we've known for years and a few days later it was...

From what I remember, the fuel level was straight to the clocks rather than via CAN. Its just a simple variable resistor, which is linear. First find which wire it is (test resistance with multi meter and move the float up and down). Wire it up in a simple voltage divider circuit, with a 1k...

So quite a bit has changed since the last update (and Photobucket changes)... I used it a lot in 2017. Built and fitted a Kaaz LSD with a 3.64, all good. Removed the servo and went to twin master cylinders for braking, much better. Had a few really good days out in it at Cadwell in July...

For an 'easy' all in one solution, id be looking for a second hand DL1 or similar, from what I remember the Emeralds output data over a serial line which they can log to memory card. Other than that, its something custom probably to read that serial data the ECU outputs