Search results

And we are back on the road, for my fellow ADHD friends in summary: SKF tensioner kit fitted with 5pk belt PAS mount replaced PAS fluid flushed for Dexron III Millers oil change w/ Purflex filter New Sasic lower gearbox mount Reseated HP PAS line Raised front shocks 8mm Rewired an audio stalk...

If you haven't already bend the scenic shifter back (above the pivot), position is much better and you don't end up punching the radio.

Smashing the middle through with a screwdriver and hammer is far more fun though

Stalk works fine (minus the roller at the back) but I had to desolder all of the microswitches. There is some multiplex wizardry, all the switches share lots of I/Os. Continuity diagram: The dog's dinner... but as a V1 it works. I was really impatient and did it the dumb way. + = Speed Up -...

@Brigsy personally I don't mind it! I did end up making an audio stalk into a CC controller, maybe Flexi is the next step

Looks fiddly but should be doable, reinforce with a dab of black silicon (if it were me). I thought about doing this but couldn't work out a way that didn't involve a load of loose wire behind the wheel 🤔

@Darg Renomotive is one of the best known clio breakers, only heard good things

Another https://www.renomotive.com/product-page/used-renault-megane-mk3-rs-250-yellow-dot-recaro-seats

Any pics of how its looking? From a few angles just to add context. The belt going back on is longer, so something must not set up correctly - but hard to make suggestions without seeing

It's a real pain in the ass, but you know that already :LOL:

I'm using a T-mex Stainless Steel Worm Drive Hose Clips 70-120mm from screwfix. Annoyingly you have to buy 10, but they work.

Shouldn't be loose - 21nm is the tightening torque so just nipped up

I removed the bungs and used a washer underneath to stop the mechanism getting stuck on the carpet. Not a huge difference, but makes it a nicer place to be. The nuts are fairly out the way for water ingress, no issues in the 6+ years since doing it - I think using a washer also 'seals' the gap...

Nah looks awful, I should buy it instead.... It seems doable, just got to make sure the angle sensor is cable tied to stop it rotating out of alignment.

It looks great and that's why I am avoiding it. There are other things I should be doing 😅

TBF the car is quite easy to work on after you remove everything around the thing you want to get out. I did buy the car to spanner on... So right into the deep end I go. New bracket ordered as well as a Halfords worth of spanners, should have it back together in a couple of days. At least...

I have a lot in common with timing covers

@Brigsy From what I can see it is attached to the top of the PAS mount which shouldn't be too hard to get too (by removing the alternator and the PAS pump) *In the meantime

@YorkshireKyle recommended it to me to protect the timing cover - so to answer your question it should do, personally I am yet to do it myself

Yes for AC + HPAS. I have an SKF one and a Gates one and they are both decent. As long as it's a known brand you should be alright - hopefully somebody can chip in with specific recommendations if they have them.

Thought I would wack the tensioner in while I'm waiting on spanners. Bottom bolt fine, middle bolt fine, top bolt starts to grip then spins... The threads in the mount have turned to cheese. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel but it's not getting any brighter.

Genuine belt is 1662 but 1665 is close enough and gives you more slack to fit. I'm about to sling a 5pk1665 on mine.

I do have a spanner to socket adapter but that doesn't fit either 🙃 The other issue is that even if it did fit by the time the bolt is wound out 5mm then it's wedged on the frame and nothing is moving Swan neck would be the sensible first try

Tensioner doesn't seem seized, but there is rubbing on the spring so it needs to go. Out with the old and in with the new. Or not, as there is no cunting room. Lifting the engine shortens the gap. I could try lifting the gearbox but CBA. Don't think there would be enough room and I would...

I sacked mine off years ago but this is such a good idea. I think I have a few stalks knocking about in a box somewhere...

You can also tap into the squib connector to install CC. (I don't have a squib with black cruise wire from the clock ring)

https://cliosport.net/threads/k-tec-renault.850256/ Join the club by the look of it

Currently day five of the estimated seven, good to see some things are going to plan though. The fob was an relatively easy fix! Could have tested it using diode mode 👀

Keys are programmed to the UCH I think? The immobiliser ring just checks the key on behalf of the UCH. Maybe even the BCM too - *full kit to replace:

I tried FetLife for belt experts but they redirected me here. Pulleys all in line and no obvious damage, PAS pump and tensioner idler have slight movement to them. My spare PAS pump also seems to have this movement, waiting on replacement tensioner to check that. To me it seems the belt is...