Search results

Stubby didnt work well for me so ditched it after 5 mins Still got it if anyones looking for one. Its a OEM VW one.

I done away with the fuse and used a junction box to join that two leads you see there to my positive cable fed through the bulkheas frkm my relocated battery You can use one from an e36 bmw iirc or any others online such as this style...

Im sure if they were as harmful or useless as everyone makes them out to be then nobody would use them and companies would collapse as quick as an unflushed engine :ROFLMAO: Probably wasted £10 a year on worse things

Alot of the flush products have came a long way since years ago and there was the fear of fkuah getting into bearings and then preventing oil from getting in I used to use forte treatments myself, moved ontl fueltone now and so has alot of other mechanics that I know who used to use forte

New proposals to the tyres is causing some confusion and needs cleared up. If going with any eu marked tyre then does this render the tyre lists pointless. Be interesting to see the outcome of all this, will be clear as mud as usual and down to everyones interpretion

Sorry cant help on that one Just seen on facebook that all changes were scrapped due to the volume of emails they received but I wouldn't take that as gospel! Big thing was they were relaxing the original block rule in modified class which then introduces engine swaps into that class. Alot of...

Link to the proposals here : https://www.motorsportuk.org/assets/actionsheetforconsultation-shc-finalv2.pdf Closing date for consultation has passed, unsure when it will be announced what is going ahead and what is axed

Yeah, under current regs you cannot replace components for rose jointed / metal replacements. Cant remember the exact wording. There was a few guys pulled for it in the scottish sprint and hillclimb championship along with solid top mounts. They were checking the whole of the class specifically...

Hold off on the roll centre kit, under current regs its not allowed however if all the new proposals go through then it will be allowed. With regards to the rarb, never get any hassle in scotland for having them in road going class As said with pads, standard rears and mintex / ferrodo pad on...

Im £150 a year for my cup as part of my multicar policy with aviva, 1000miles per year

The small ones that go from car to axle or the ones that run along the axle to the caliper? If its the short ones I have two new proline ones sitting here, cant post for a few weeks though

Maybe changed then or depends on whos working. Always worth a try anyway! I found the same with the case, everything else outlived it. I found the plastic hinge at the back went eventually and split completely then I just decanted it into my toolbox

If there is promotions on you will either get trade price or promotion price. Cant get trade on promotions. Often the promotion price is near enough the trade price When they do the free screwdriver sets with 5l of oil etc, you either pay full price and get thr screwdrivers or pay trade price...

The jon foz subframes seem to have different mounting holes to others. I ran mirco seats, OMP side mounts and OMP subframe Changed to the jon foz subframe and the side mounts when set as far apart as possible on the subframe holes wouldnt let the seat sit between them. Had to elongatw the holes...

You do get braked ones but unsure how efficient they are as using the cars brakes surely just results in a solid pedal and very little brakes. Have seen them advertised before

Please use the money you save by hiring and buy a set of tyre slings for that straps and do it properly. Servicing a trailer will be the least of your worries when that car moves or shears the wheel when the force is put on the spokes

For reference regarding the turnbuckle, the distance between alternator and block holes when belt is at a decent tension is 190mm. This equates to a 120mm turnbuckle from mcgill motorsport om ebay to give a decent range. I tried their shortest at 70mm before starting the job and nowhere near...

For reference, the distance between alternator and block holes when belt is at a decent tension is 190mm. This equates to a 120mm turnbuckle from mcgill motorsport on ebay to give a decent range. I tried their shortest at 70mm before starting the job and nowhere near, went for a 100mm which...

Solid on top of the gearbox mount aswell. Thought about getting a small holder made for it and mounting it up at the pas bottle area if the loom alloys. Anyone relocated theres to a similar position?

Iv always said an advert tells alot about the car / owner. Cant beat a well written advert, if folk cant be bothered to put 5 minutes effort into writing an advert with some decent information then what does that show about them

I have a plano toolbag which is a decent size and have various hand tools in there. I took stuff out my toolbox in the workshop into there for my first race a few years back and have never put them back. So handy to grab for racing, working on a car at home or different location. All the go to...

Pretty sure there was someone making these up? Failing that any engineering firm should be able to make one up no bothee

Thats one to hold on to! Cant beat a clean and fresh Ph1. Wish Id never made mine into a sprint / hillclimb car years ago and cant believe how the price of them has risen since then

Ach I'll go for it then. Iv a whole year before the cars needed anyway as taken a year out to get some jobs done and finished but list keeps growing haha Got new tie rods and ends sitting spare so fine chance to get them fitted to a dci rack

Isnt it tight as hell and near impossible to remove the pas rack with the subframe still in place?

I just had the subframe dropped a few months ago, wish I had this planned back then and wouldve just swapped out the rack Will loop this one for just now and see how it feels and then change the rack for a dci one in the future at some point

Rs lower inlet fits no problem, just done one on my ph1 end of last year Ph1 has a different breather system too, this may affect the top inlet aswell as the tb pcv and sensor

Anyone running li ion batteries in the passenger seat? I relocated my battery last year to passenger seat and running an odyssey. Will swap to li ion sometime but have heard issues with them being relocated due to length of wire and voltage drop? Dont want to go back to having it in the engine...

I was quite concerned how exposed the posts ib mine were and didnt come with any sort of protection. I just taped them up bit should really stick some heat shrink over them or something What about something like this to save adding in an extra wire? MOTOPOWER MP69011 Battery Quick Release...

Attached now