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Got it back AGAIN. Refitted it, 2.5 weeks after crushing the end off my finger in a log splitter (doh). It wasnt easy but I got it in. Reverse - fine 1st gear - fine 2nd gear - fine (phew) 3rd gear - fine 4th gear - fine 5th gear - not fine :( No 5th. Exact same symptoms as 2nd, just with...

Awesome, and loads of notice too, i've already booked the hotel!

165 or so.

I've been quite a bit higher than that when on track.

Was on the original fan loom so Jamie OK'd a new one to be built Can you spot where I ran out of spiral wrap? LOL Also waiting on some new fuse blocks to go by the power feed, they arrived yesterday so thats the next job. otherwise all working, both fans come on full speed. very effective.

New driveshaft pins Arch liners refitted, as this wasnt done after it was painted Suspension back in with new wishbones, balljoints, and polybushes on the outer ARB Few more bits bolted in - found a water leak from the oil cooler body Sourced a used oil cooler, now the fan...

New gear linkage bushes Downpipe in Distributor and leads And... she runs :) Painted some brackets and throttle linkage Sourced and fitted a brand new aux coolant pump, the old one was dead as a doornail

Manifolds and turbo on Belt cover and a few other bits Wrapped the downpipe

Subframe and box in, new subframe bolts too Followed by engine Rebuilt the clutch slave Parts back from blast & coat

Blasted a few other bits, and sent a load off for powdercoat Before After Gave it a size up, made sure the bespoke clutch would fit. It did :) Before I refitted the drivetrain I welded up some holes in the bulkhead left from an aftermarket AC install

I havent been updating but I have been working away on this. Yuk Degreaser and pressure washer Powdercoated subframe with new bushes Blasted the engine mounts and gearbox mounts New fork

Depends on your budget. Start with decent brake fluid, ATE Type 200 or RBF660, then high carbon discs and performance pads. Which pad will depend on budget and preference. That is good enough for most road use and will see you at under £400-ish. If you track or use it very hard do the Brembo...

I used Plastics 4 Performance too, had a bespoke set made for my R21 - highly recommended. They do perspex as a cheaper option, that will discolour over time and damage easier as its an acrylic, I went for Makrolon which is a polycarbonate, which to the eye looks like glass - top quality stuff.

And done! New seals, pistions, bleed nipples & caps, pins, pads. Ready to fit.

Out it comes again

Same, I've had 2 eezibleeds for donkeys, I even keep an old Renault 9 spare steel wheel for pressuring it. Might grab one of these new jobbies though, they look handy!

I know a lad in Slovania with a 2WD one and a Quadra, thats about the closest I can think of to you!

First coat.

Got it all bolted back together at the weekend, filled with oil, fired it up while on ramps to check it was OK. No second gear. Absolutely fuming.

Upgrade in progress! Yuk. Rebuild kit with pistons, caliper paint, hanger kit, braided lines, and wheel spacers. Took considerable effort getting the paint off, yellow over the original red. One done, one to go.

Box is back, turns out there was a whole load of issues inside with mismatched gearsets - whoever rebuilt it didnt really do it very well! Now reassembled with a lower final drive and a longer 5th gear from a R25V6 Turbo :) Managed to get it in place and bolted in on the engine and box...

I highly recommend a Clio based mid life crisis. This was/is mine, although the reg plates are now private wanker plates to compound the crisis situation, CL10 RSU and C111O RS

Ive kept the ones I was in, in decent nick and stored away - other than that I have a box of Max Power in the loft for old times sake...cant seem to bin them for some reason!

Whats failed on the current box? Can that failure mode be corrected? Too much power? Or are you flat shifting it? Whats gone wrong?

Lakeside Service Centre in Redditch can also do these properly, good mate of mine and I lend him my dephaser tools when he gets one in.

The dephaser, as I recall, uses oil pressure to phase the inlet cam 16 degrees over a certain set of driving parameters including MAP reading, throttle position etc etc - so the cam position naturally should be fine for idle - ie it should NOT run rough or badly even with that solenoid broken. I...

If you're struggling send me a DM, I will drop Tony Hart a message, he's the head honcho from back in the day. Spends his time now building very cool race cars for himself!

Think they are all M8, but as its suspension make sure they are 10.9 tensile, do not use 8.8 or stainless.

Doo-doo-doo doo doo, another one bites the dust!

Out it comes.