This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
@MAXRUNDOWN That's a much better write up, I think I was just happy to not have PS fluid pissing everywhere.
Cup PAS pump placement is so much better than standard!
All this being said I am collecting the parts to run dci EPAS rack. The kit is much better than a failing pipe but I don't think...
@MrBlonde Kits great, easy to fit if you have the engine out but massive PITA if you are doing it in situ.
The main pains where:
I had to undo the two small pipes on the rack to get spanner access to the HP line
My HP line union was seized so had to run an angle grinder through it and bend it...
The horseshoe tool for the cams is the most important to get genuine if money is tight.
This set is £200 on eBay right now, might be worth shooting Ozzy or Dann a message and see if you could borrow - would be cheaper in the long run and know the tools are bang on
A non-genuine tool must still line up with the same keys/locations to a genuine one.
Looks like this one?
Which I hope it isn't as it's for the wrong engine. Do you have a link to where you bought it?
@YorkshireKyle sounds ideal
I was thinking new belt, while I'm there pull the tensioner apart to see if it's seized then maybe a new idler. Does that sound stupid?
I'm a bit loathed to spend £180 on the genuine kit (and more of going 5pk) but I'm also not a big fan of engine blowy-uppy.
Based on the direction of the teeth, the ratchet mechanism looks like its a full extension? And the locking tabs should be where the red line is?
As @Brigsy says it's self adjusting, so if you can get the cable on it should adjust itself to match (assuming the clutch has been installed correctly)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42853830@N04/albums/72157629211504833/with/6887435460
Massive Flickr album of a B18 in an R5. From a quick observation the engine mounts are on the bottom as the engine/gearbox is attached to the sub frame.
Is it possible: probably
Can you use the original engine...
https://cliosport.net/threads/how-to-remove-airbag-steering-wheel-all-stalks-steering-casing-and-squib.588775/
Might be able to pull it all off at once by releasing the tab on the final image
You would have learned so much in five years it will be so much easier by then (although most owners leave it 8+ years for timing belt... Aux belt/tensioner needs doing every 3/4).
And not that you are thinking of selling (nobody ever is, until they do) but knowing the belts have been done at a...
Yeah there are no RS Haynes unfortunately, but the Renault workshop manuals are good if you have them.
And you never know what you may find, it may open a can of worms.
If you think it's a one day job it's probably two. Find a cracked bracket and suddenly it's seven.
And I don't say that to...
Could be a laugh! If you have the time I don't see why not you sound like you have your head screwed on. The manuals are available on the forum if you need them or I can dm them to you. The stone automotive vid is good but the manual has all the torque specs etc readily available, and you don't...
Really should have put this all in one post... but this is a good vid of what you would be in for: .
Bare in mind if you have PAS and aircon there is even more stuff in the way
*There is also about an inch of room to do it, your knuckles will be bleeding, and you will be swearing. Unless you pull the engine out the top, then it's 'easy'.
https://cliosport.net/threads/renaultsport-specialist-near-manchester.827684/
Not the hardest thing in the world but I wouldn't do it as my first, definitely need all the right tools and double-triple checking with the workshop manual as the timing is very sensitive.
I paid a specialist to do...
Baterry must be fine, I have never seen one. My ph2 keys have always looked like this:
I would suggest jumping the switch but you have to close the case to complete the battery circuit 🙈
I think it's quite common as far as broken fobs go
This is a good shout, even if it's just some fresh...
It might be a non-OEM (or ph1 specific board then). Both batteries are 3v so if it worked before its probably right tbh. Be interested to find out what it is. if you have a multimeter you can at least check button continuity.
OEM keyfob uses a CR1220*. Might not be your issue, but my microswitch needed re-soldering as the joints had broken.
*on a 172 ph2 at least, is a ph1 different?
Seven hours later, the kit was fitted. I'm not convinced this has been done on a standard car before, and I can imagine it being a doddle with the engine out. But I didn't have that luxury so lots of stubby spanners and swearing were used.
Getting the pipes off the rack in situ only took an...
First CSF and had a great time, Cadwell was amazing to drive and it was great seeing some familiar faces.
If I hadn't of spent seven hours replacing the high pressure PAS line on Friday I probably would have been more chatty... Roll on CSF27!