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No. They’re fine as they are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PMS one is excellent quality and 5 way adjustable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are talking about Clio 1*2 (172 or 182) then they don’t have a rear ARB as standard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can take it out through the top easily enough. You’ll need to remove the radiator really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Position-wise that's pretty much exactly the same as mine. Except I had the kit with no bulkhead connectors, so I just had the lines running through grommets which gave them a bit more adjustment. (not a very good photo I'm afraid)

Thanks Rob (great name!) These sites are great for learning stuff aren't they. I think I must be subscribed to about 20 different build threads on here. You can never know enough! Happy to help if you have any questions. I can't guarantee I'll have all the answers but 2 heads are better than...

Ordered from these guys. https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/ 4mm with brushed finish but they only cut to square sizes, so I had to cut the circle out of it. They're quite local to me so I collected but they do deliver of course.

Getting seat position right is one of the most difficult tasks on a race car. This looks good though. Is it fairly central to the steering wheel where you have it?

Jump on to the CSCC Tin Tops Facebook page. Loads of helpful people on there. By far the best club to start racing with too.

Maybe Silverstone in May? I'm always looking for pit crew. ;)

I use these to hold the splitter on https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Fairing-Clips-m5-m6-Speed-Spire-Clips-Select-Quantity-10-100/130798235678?hash=item1e742eb01e:m:myZ0iPUVBteq9uCRKda0zJw:rk:1:pf:0 They haven't failed me yet and I also use them to hold the lower part of the side skirts...

Ha! It definitely does pay off and especially in racing where the stresses on bolts, components etc are that much higher. I don't envy you moving house and trying to move a workshop too. I think moving my workshop would be more stressful than moving the stuff in the house! I'm based in...

Thanks mate. More updates coming shortly! You've been busy with yours too I notice! It's easy to get carried away isn't it!

Thanks mate. When I read back what I've been through with this car I do wonder how it is that I still have so much enthusiasm for it! If last season had gone differently though it could be up for sale now! Having a bit of silverware makes a massive difference. So we'll see how 2019 pans out...

Thanks Neil, much appreciated. Like you, I do like a bit of attention to detail and when you're racing I've found it pays dividends. Despite initial gremlins on the car's first outing after the rebuild the reliability has been spot on. Only improvements are required and of course just keeping on...

So after a couple of months not touching the car I now need to start cracking on with my planned changes and improvements ready for the first test day at the end of March. My main goal this winter is to get the dash and OE heater out as this is the last significant area for weight reduction...

Drop me a message if you like. Happy to give you a bit of guidance. You won’t regret it. It’s addictive! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Black series are really tough. I fitted mine while the subframe was off and still needed numerous clamps and brute force to get the bolts in!

Mine were ok. But I didn't use bulkhead fittings. Just drilled through and used grommets. And I went through the firewall underneath the seam that you've drilled above. Although the kits do appear to be a little inconsistent Mich has always been extremely helpful and I'm sure he will sort it for...

At risk of hijacking Adam's thread, Here you go. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/keeper-technology-fia-msa-approved-square-rain-light-dtmled8172r/

Phase 1s have a return line to the tank whereas the phase 2s don’t. Not sure if you’ve tried changing the regulator (or even if you can on those rails). Other than that, if you are sure you have a fueling problem it can only be the in tank pump or the injectors. These cars are notorious for bad...

It was a very small amount. Literally like just taking the coating off the surface. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes it’s a bit too tight. I had to take a fine file and take a little bit off the tool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here you go. Taken a long time ago now. Before the rebuild. And the bigger size is much more visible

That was my old race car! The previous owner had stuck the rain light on the boot with screws and a bit of silicon so I found another boot release badge and drilled it out. Just a bit tidier but I would definitely mount it inside at the top of the rear window which is where I now have the rain...

Sounds like you've just been unlucky with the timing. If you're running standard or standard-ish power, the standard clutch should be fine, but you probably know that anyway.

KAM usually has one in stock Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On a standard engine a decent Valeo or Sachs clutch will be fine. If you want more bite a Helix paddle clutch will fit the bill, but they’re expensive and I think overkill for your needs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you joining us in the tInTops?

Wheels make a massive difference obviously, not only on kerb weight but such a reduction in the rotating mass completely transformed the car. Also worth doing a bit of research into the rollcage weights. Obviously you don't want to compromise safety but some cages are incredibly heavy and unless...