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Part of the fun of owning a cliosport is their quirks! They do tend to have a little bit of a lumpy idle, especially cold, just not excessively so. They also have a tendancy to kangeroo for about 30-60seconds from dead cold.

The dephaser solenoid advances the timing at around 1800rpm I'm afraid, though it sounds like an electrical issue to me possibly just due to be stored. That looks like it will be a well tidy car polished up! Did you mention you were close to north wales? I was up there the other day when we had...

For anyone who reads in the future and worried about timing marks or tipex marks, the reason they are done is to check tension after the belt has been tensioned but not yet locked to the already timed up engine using the correct timing tools. If after rotating the pulley assembly with the...

Fair enough. I had not seen that it was sounding like a diesel, I just guessed you were looking for a cheap clio to knock about in without spending unnessecerily on it. When I joined up to get guide (which has plenty of nifty tricks) I got the "you must change this, and this, and that or it will...

He was talking about £600 for a car being within his budget and whatnot I didn't know if he was trying to get himself a reliable car for as low as possible price or if he wanted to go the all out replacing everything. There is no urgent need to replace the dephaser, even if it is rattiling, it...

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How many miles has it done? All depends on how much money you want to spend! Unless the dephaser is making the car sound like a diesel, you don't really need to change it. Water pumps seem to last forever and are driven by the aux belt so easy enough to change and I'm nearing on 150k miles on...

You'll be fine, it's easier than most cars imo. The only difficulty is access that renault has left to some bolts should be a crime, but if you're lifting the engine out then no worries. Though when you add up the cost of parts + the locking tools you only end up saving just over £100.

Just noticed this, now that the crank pulley is off it it's likely the cams have moved.

I would double check you're in the right hole there and not the balancing hole. The groove in the crankshaft should be at the midpoint between those two ribs above it in the right of the pictures.

clogged cat, blowing exhaust, faulty lambda can cause poor mpg

it depends how many miles since last reset. If it has like 2 miles since last reset it will drop about 10mpg a minute while idling.

oh wow

mpg will ne mpg will never go up while idling..it will keep going down until it hits 0..

Does it do it in neutral if you just rev it?

The mot station I take mine too actually like to put naff advisories on because they believe it keeps vosa happy. It's usually advisories like "engine covers fitted".

I had a similar advisory on an MOT about 5 years ago. 5 mot's and 90k miles later no one's ever picked up on it since. There is actually slight play in the rear subframe bushes but nothing noteworthy, MOT tester was just being a bit anal.

If you're just after pure performance enhancement, a well accepted mod is to cut the ignition wires on the battery, insert key to unlock steering and get your mates to push it while making a throaty noise. Other than that, new filters, oil, plugs etc.

Was that the access hole for the bottom idler? I've seen plenty of pics with people getting extensions through there, never worked out how they hell they did it. Only method I've found to access it is by putting a socket in it and turning it with a mole grips.

After owning a 172 for the past 6 years my threshold for what counts as a pig of a job has been creeping upward. Easier second time round!

Rattiling can be caused by the heatshield. Are you sure its a whistling noise as opposed to a whine?

Chances are you wont need to buy a kit, this happens to me every so often (10k or so) because I keep using copper grease. Proper brake grease is well worth it. If it's pulling to one side under medium-heavy braking it's likely to be the opposite side that's sticking, but do them both anyway it's...

There wont be enough room to get any sort of tool in, unless you buy the specific tool. Easiest way it to squash a big jubilee clib in to the overal shape of the tensioner, put it around the tensioner and tighten the jubilee clip to take the tension off. There wont be any need to remove the PAS...

Sometimes stiffer is too stiff.

Sounds like a sticky caliper to me. The piston would still retract fine as it's usually not that that sticks, usually one of the sliders.

squash a jubilee clip in to an oval shape and put it over the tensioner, tighten to take the tension off the belt. To take the tensioner off, I think I had to raise/lower the engine with the top mount off to get a socket and extension through an access hole.

I use the cheapest stuff I can get my hands on that meets the renault spec, I forget the brand but it's £21 for 20 litres. At that price I can afford to change it every 6k miles. Car is now on 140k and still goes well and doesn't use any oil. My thinking is, while more expensive oil is...

Keep in mind the cooling system is under pressure when up to temp and the engine is up to speed, so a slight sweep on the drive can turn in to a pretty quick leak on the road.

I personally wouldn't unless I absolutely had to, and if I had to I'd take it very gently on the throttle and make sure the heaters dont blow cold on the entire journey.

Just whack it in and turn the engine with the same tool you used to take it off, it's how I done it, it's only for turning the pulleys while they are free to equalise tension across the belt.