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Thanks for clearing that up James as i did wonder what the difference was.

Thanks for clearing that up James as i did wonder what the difference was.

Cheers James. Just asking as ive noticed some pistons are marked B and some marked C with mine been C. Wanted to know what difference was. Model year perhaps? Mine is 2005 Trophy. Did the Laguna 2.0 16v use the same block?

Well returned from holiday and not the best news I had on the block machining. The damaged bore is beyond honing as it has a small hole in it caused by the melted piston and rings. Just trying to figure out my options really. A) full rebore with oversize pistons which to be honest is out of my...

It's been a few years since i had any engine work done and had a price from a guy local to me who's name has popped up many times via my mechanic mates. Are these prices the norm nowadays? Head Skim - £30 Block Skim - £40 Bore honing - £20 (£5 per bore) Chemical Wash - £10

Thanks Andy :up: I'll download it on my laptop when I get home as its not working on my phone. Probably because it's a zipped file.

Great, just let me know. I'm in Cheshire

Just wondering if anyone has this or can point me in the right direction with web links. I've hunted everywhere on the net and came up with nothing. Basically need piston rings tolerances, cranksaft bearing tolerances (mains & big ends) torque settings etc etc for when I build my engine back up...

That would be a big help if you could :up:

Yes machine shop said it will deffo hone out no problem. That lightish colour on the bore is melted alu piston and comes off with a brass scraper and local heat. Only minimal lip on the bore top too. Think it's deffo been injector/fuel pump related bud and once i have this built ill send the...

I'm not sure bud as its already in the tank when I use it but I'll find out Friday when im back in as the drum is next to it.

What I do need if anyone can point me in the right direction is torque settings for the F4R.774 engine plus crank end float measurements etc Any detailed specifications would be a massive help in the build

Haha well i certainly don't mind doing a photographic/detailed guide to building an engine (F4r.774) if the mods will allow it with me being a megane lad It's my first Renault build and im sure I may make a few mistakes along the way but there's some fantastic tech lads on here that will put me...

Yes will definately be getting the 630's mapped in as soon as its built. Seriously thinking of adding an AFR gauge to keep an eye on the fuel/air ratio. Be interesting to hear from anyone if anyone is running the 250 fuel rail and pump.

Hi Andy Thanks for your input on this. The damaged piston was Cylinder 2 so yeah near the flywheel end. I'm with you and definately think it's been a fuelling issue thats caused it. I'll be replacing the injectors with 630's for piece of mind as ive heard the OEM ones are rubbish. I'm still...

Haha i was like that on my first engine build years ago and had nuts & bolts left everywhere. Just chucked them in the bin lol. Much different now though, they have all gone off to the zinc platers in seperate clear sarnie bags

I'm self tought mate after messing round with cars for years. Stripped my first engine given to me by a neighbour when i was 14 as i was curious to know how they worked and put together lol.

Cheers James Deffo gonna give them a lap in as i doubt it will take long and have piece of mind that ill have a good seal on the valves. Not looking forward to getting those collets in though. Trying to figure out a knack to it haha

Managed to strip down the head today and dropped it into the ultrasonic bath for cleaning. Checked the valve seats and all in great condition. Various debate with regards to lapping the valves in. Been told that i shouldnt need too as new engines are machined to within minimal tolerances but im...

Cheers buddy. Managed to get the b*****d off with brute force haha

Yes there is definately a woodruff key on the meg as i can see it. I just can't get a puller on it as the back of the cog is sat flush with the casing. You must have to use those M4 bolt holes somehow on the pulley.

Any reason why Alex just out of curiosity as i know Engine Dynamics & KTR use and sell them. Cheers

Can anyone tell me the best way to remove this cog wheel from the crank end? Need to remove it in order to get the end casing off but it just aint budging. Cheers Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Compression test would rule out a few things so id try that first bud. This was exactly how mine started and found out piston & rings had melted. Check my piston detonation thread above. Any smoke coming through oil cap?

Haha don't i know it. Enough to make a grown man cry his fu#*king eyes out

Very lucky there bud. As said above always replace once taken off and never re-tension an old belt.

Steer clear of having wheels powder coated buddy. If they chip or curb then water will get in behind the coating and it will bubble & start flaking off. Seen it happen so many times with wheels completely fu##ed with powder coating. I've always had my wheels wet painted after a bad experience...

Cheers pal will do. Just spent the last hour reading your engine build thread. Fu##ing fantastic attention to detail buddy. Seems you have OCD like me haha. Enjoy your hols mate

Yeah i might do that once its built back up to figure out what went wrong. They were just ultrasonic cleaned as far as i know and opened up with a small amount of voltage. Nothing was replaced as far as i could tell bud.

Yep clean out mate and covered my nice freshly painted engine bay in hot oil I knew it was wrecked by then so covered the electrics and just got the hot jet wash out and blasted it clean.