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Thanks for that! :cool:
SF4000 is PO106FA, with the later being the actual product code. It is a very good polish and should finish a clio beautifully.
Iron X paste and and the regular Iron X are the same strength just the paste does cling, it's not sprayable.
It seems to sell better for alloys than on paint just because on paint contamination is likely to be all over so suits a spray better, whereas alloys the contamination usually is just...
Of the sheepskin mitts, personally I think the Sonus Ultimate ones are best without the thumb. They are made from less pieces of skin so less chance of falling apart and have been really fluffy lately.
As above, the Menz pads on a DA give the machine that bit extra bite you need. What polsih did you get?
Normal route is PO85RD3.02 on a polishing (orange) moving up to teh white pad if you need more cut.
Followe by PO85RD Final Finish for full on gloss.
Ours aren't the cheapest, although we'd price match, but as we buy direct from the manufacturer they come with a D-Handle and canvas carry case which people seem to be really like. The D-Handle is a massive improvement over just the side handle, but they come with that as well.
Cheers Tim
hehe thanks as always Alan I know I can always count on your support ;)
The Sonus kit would be perfect for you by the sounds of things. The abrasives aren't very aggresive on scale of things as they break down quite easily which is why I always say the SFX kit is a ideal starter kit.
Even...
A G220 won't strip paint. I think the people you are talking to are possibly confusing it with a rotary polisher. These are alot more agrresive and can strip paint, but even then with a quality variable speed, unless you have it cranked right up it's very difficult to burn through.
A G220...
We've lots of clay in stock where you don't need to buy the QD. Have a look at the Sonus green which can be used often and does a good job on contamination.
The idea is to soften dirt and allow larger debris to be dragged off the surface without having to physically touch teh paint. You can get the car 90% clean by foaming so when you do actually wash it's much safer.
As a quick clean you you can get away with not using a mitt at all.
Zaino Z-2 is definately the best sealant, although it's fairly expensive. Topped with Z-8 it gives amazing shin and durability.
Value for money can't go wrong with carlack (carlack is teh same product as jeffs)
Really it all depends on how big your budget is and how far you want to go with things.
I'd say the essentials are a sheepskin mitt, two buckets and a decent shampoo such as Chemical Guys body wash n Wax, Carlack or Zaino Z7. A microfibre drying towel, my personal preference are Sonus Der...
Be really carefull with the cirus snow foam, it is a corrosive and a very very strong alkali. It will definately strip LSP and isn't really all that good for your paintwork and seals. Even the regular super snow foam is basically a TFR which works great for cutting through the kind of dirt you'd...
I'd seriously consider Carlack Nano topped with Collinite #845. you have slightly It really cleans the paint up and gives bags of protection. On white it gives a nice wet look.
For a bit extra cash, Zaino, it's very easy to use and will outlast everything. Definately my favourite sealant.
Tim
The Gilmours don't give as many suds as the pressure washer versions, but if you use a stronger ration they will still foam really well. They do give a slippier foam which isn't necesarrily a bad thing a sthey draw the dirt off the surface as it does so, which is the biggest plus of using a...
Carlack Nano topped with #476s. Jeffs Trigger is only easier to use than the dedicated Long Life sealant as it has more distilled water so isn't as concentrated (also makes it easier to spray). Try long life on a damp applicator, a panel at a time and it's very easy to use and will be more durable.
For the best protection, definately Carlack Nano topped with Collinite #476s. For a bit more cash Zaino would be my ultimate choice as it just lasts and lasts and lasts.
This is the process I would suggest.
Firstly wash the car, two buckets and sheepskin mitt.
Clay the car to remove embedded contamination and any roughness.
Polish with Menzerna Intensive Polish PO85RD 3.02 and Final Finish PO85RD, using Menzerna or Sonus pads.
Then finally your choice of...
It all depends on your budget and how much time you have got for each stage.
For shampoo, I'd go for Chemical Guys Body Wash n Wax or Zaino Z7. The Carlack is also very good and better value for money.
I'd definately get a pre-wax cleaner for use before the wax. I know most people on here...
The Sonus SFX kit is ideal for beginners, the pads are very easy to use, and the piolishes break down nice and easy. It polish will struggle to remove any deeper defects but create a really impressive shine.
If you are looking for a bit more correction then I'd personally go with the Menzerna...
We've just got a new snow foam lance in, which is a really high quality bit of kit.
Here's my new van after a blast with PH Neutral Snow Foam.
Just be careful with doing that, the more you put through will create more foam, but obviosuly you run the risk of stripping waxes etc. off with...
We have the new '100%' carnauba version of the R222 in now (in the wax section) and it seems very very good! Just had a play today.
By hand the best products i've tried are the Carlack kit linked to higher up in the thread, but it is very hard work!
Tim