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thanks man! :)

anyone know what size is the bolt thread that's missing in the OP's post? Thx!

I can't find any lemforder balljoint on my local online part store with this code. Maybe because I'm based in the EU and not in the UK? The ones that appear to be the right part have the 2889203 code attached (they have the M12 size bolts as they should)

Small little bump here- can anyone make a small guide into replacing all the seals in the AC system and where are they located? Thx!

Does the DCI rack have the same lock to lock turns compared to the RS one? I've heard that it has like 4 turns rather than 2,8- that's not so pretty, would make the car feel dull. Or am I wrong?

Meaning that the wilwood pads are smaller than the original or smaller than the Brembo pads?

How are the ph1 and 172 cup shafts different? There are various explanations but it's kinda confusing

the guys that installed it said it was original. Anyway, the one I instlled now is 100% original as I did the job :). Let's see now

Just replaced my thermostat the other day. Question is- why do these fail SO BADLY? It basically shredded apart wtf. This is the second one in the last 3 years, the original one lasted 15 years or so Any ideas? are there some stronger units out there?

hey nice build you have here! I see that you're running 30mm spacers- how do you cope up with that? Suspension guru's will say that the scrub radius will be all over the place and that the best way to substantially increase track width is with longer wishbones/lower ball joints and longer...

Hi guys, Recently installed my Bilstein B14 kit which I'm so so pleased about, did a trackday couple of days ago and really liked how the car behaved. I currently run Nankangs NS2R's in 205/45 16 size and was wondering if going next level on the tyres - AR1's, R888's and the likes- would be too...

It's a daily driven car, I'm not a fan of slammed cars especially on bad roads, oversized speed bumps etc. Plus if I run it that low on the rear I'll have to lower it on the front as well and it will scrub on the arches, hit the bump stops. Been there done that 10 years ago.

Hi, I'm about to fit a set of b14's and noticed that the rear spring adjustment collars have no lock in place screw. Don't they move out of position while driving?

I haven't spoke to Gaz, I know they're very nice and helpful but I recently bought the B14s so fingers crossed I'll get rid of all the noises. I also noticed that on firmer settings the noises kinda faded on the rear, but even on 6 clicks or so the car is too bouncy even on decent roads.

Change the cables and then see if it works. I had the same problem and one of the cables was chewed by corrosion. I did them both and it sorted it

I have bought a set of b14's and have some k-tec solid mounts (the older golden type). Any advice on how to mount them? I already got myself some 22mm ID washers if needed, anything else? Thx!

So, any news on this? I am on my second set of GAZ GHA coilovers and they have always made knocking noises, front and rear. The rear on mine doesn't sound like yours, It's not tik tik tik like you have but rather a deeper knocking noise over bumps- still drives me mad. Also on the front it looks...

A friend has them on for 6 years and they look spot on. True that the car stays in an undergroung garage but anyway it's daily driven, well looked after though

Use coilover socks for the fronts and the rears might benefit a coat of ACF50 even if they're painted

7 year mega bump! I'm running about 1,5 deg negative on the front for years, rest of the car is on std geo settings. On the last trackday I felt like it could use more camber on the front. I mainly use the car on the road, was thinking if going to 2 deg negative would impact tyre wear too much...

For future questions about this- The cup hubs also have oversized bearings vs non cup. For spirited driving i think this is the best reason to opt for them- durability. My 182 has 115 k miles and still with the original front bearings

What about for a LHD car ? I might need one myself in the future. Is it still available as an OEM part from Renault? Thx! Absolutely lovely thread mate!

Well this thing was waiting to be done for TOO LONG. I have my 182 since 2006 and the wheel was melting since day 2 basically so after soooo long... this must be on of the best things you can do to enjoy your ride:

Moving the strut towards the rear will loose just a very very small margin of wheel base. I would do that first to gain caster as clios like to rub on the front part of the arch liner anyway 😀

Adding caster means that either you move the top mounts towards the rear of the car or/and moving the wheels forward via lower arms mods, in which case you will gain wheelbase not lose it right?

little thread bump But how is the camber adjustment working on the b14? My gaz coilies also have an elongated hole up top but this is paired to a bolt that has an excentric washer welded onto it that rests on lump on the plates, so rotating the bolt causes the camber to change. How does that...

I am begining to think the gaz is at fault here too but I remember whaen I fitted my first kit in 2010 it kinda wasn't that bad. Now it's like the whole underside of the car has the bolts loose and it's falling apart. But if it's that bad, how come so many have it? I heard some other complains...

Couple of years later, new rear gaz shocks, refurbished front ones, new rear beam bushes, new bearings in the front solid mounts, front lower arm bushes look OK, same the anti roll bar bushes. Refurbished front and rear calipers, and carriers, new discs and pads and the suspension still rattles...

I'm tempted to try and change the seals myself. Is there a guide on this? I never worked on the AC system so far so don't wanna mess smth up! Thx!

For the climate control panel I just replaced it with another one. Some cars came out with panels without the sticky stuff and with the writings cast into the buttons instead of painted onto them so now they will not fade off or scrap! Found the panel cheap at a breakers yard and bought it...