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What would you happily pay for it?wouldn't say they are worth much, fitting cost with a run on the rollers isn't cheap for not much if any gains at all
I run the standard cup suspension on my 275 and must agree, it is so so good at dealing with our poor road surfaces, big bumps, heavy camber etc you can push on very hard and it settles quickly, I would love for it to be a little lower at the front by an inch or so for the looks, but scared to...
Only one of mine as I never take photos of my cars 🫣😂 had it about 10yrs now and it's pretty good condition, underside was restored by me 8 yrago, and I redid inside the wheel arches last year so they look like new again.
Plan is to do touch ups on the underside next year then not sure whether...
If you have the rails and rear plates and you know where they are to be fitted, go to your local small engineering firm, they'll weld them in on a Saturday morning for some cash maybe, wouldn't take no time if the seat was out etc
Why fit a half cage, I've never understood it, you fit one for protection if it goes horribly wrong, and they offer no protection whatsoever 🫣🤕 just get a full cage
Wheels off and get at it with a pry bar of at home, you'll soon see something that's loose, much easier on a lift obviously if you can get the use of one
I've managed to get it to work slightly after working it back and forth, its not perfect but not far off. I have stuck new oil in it and will run it over the next few weeks to see how it behaves, I'll update soon
I've drained oil and removed the reverse sensor, not seeing anything, be a pain to strip it down just for a nylon bush or something daft. It's on 66k and doesn't weep from the usual seal.
From 5th to centre yes,not from 1st or reverse, you need to pull it over, the pivot in the gearbox is stiff when pushing it up, the linkage and spring etc are all good.
Not sure how they look inside the box above that pivot arm, I'm guessing something is misaligned after my spirited drive...
I have an issue whete the vertical arm (one that leaks at the seal) in the gearbox is sticking when selecting first, second and reverse,up position at the box.
Reverse is very hard, have to push the lever over and select, I've disconnected the linkage to rule that out and confirm that the arm...
Does ot happen all the time when pulling off or more so on hard lock, febi mounts should be fine. try pushing engine forward, if no luck then you might want to spanner check the front end, and work everything with a pry bar
Test the crank sensor and wiring, you'd need a multimeter and a helping hand, test the voltage at the plug and resistance of the sensor, or just change the sensor and wiring, cheap, easy to do and they are prone to fail anyway, hopefully it sorts the issue
https://www.remotekey.co.uk/shop/renault/renault-clio-mark-2-1998-to-2001/renault-clio-mk2-immobiliser-bypass/
Never used one myself, but it might help
Fit a ew battery in the key first, or try starting it with the key fob button pressed in, maybe some wires have been disturbed, nothing doing a box should cause this issue though,
Just order some skf bearings, they are a good product used in various industry, mine have been fine for 8yr, you'll get them off ebay usually with quick delivery
I dontbknow why you don't spend one weekend getting it all set up correctly, with all the little bits finished then just use it for a year or so, you haven't enjoyed the thing yet, get the geo set up, stick it in for tuning and get ready to enjoy the summer at least, garage that m3 for a while 😂
Yokohama ad08r is what I use, loads more grip than the ps3 for the summer, they are also very good in the wet which helps, downside is they harden the ride a little