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Diamond Motors https://www.diamondmotors.co.uk/

Nowt much happening this week, but not stopped thinking how to resolve the fuelling issues. Ive knocked up a rubber fuel pipe with torques braided rubber and fast flow fittings. Hose is identical to earls pro lite 350 so good for 150deg and 300psi. Be interesting to see if it makes a...

Used the orange dci today. First run out after new crank sensor. Its made a massive improvement to starting and idling from cold. All the time ive ran it (around 45k miles) its started quite harsh jumping into life, then idled fairly rough from cold but fine when up to operating temp. This was...

Cts rarely fail on these. Change the thermostat first that will probably resolve your issues.

Ebc yellows are crap, swerve them. Ferodo ds1.11 front and rear and decent fluid, motul rbf600 or similar will do the job. Also id stick to plain brembo hc discs. Grooved or drilled dont usually offer much, or if any performance gain.

Syringe it out before going. I left mine on minimum all the time after that, didnt cause any issues.

Echo the above, Drop the pas fluid level to the minumum level. It will save it chucking it out with heat and damaging the pump.

I need to order the drain clip on part for this, just keep forgetting. Filter wrench well worth investing in for the meg. Been out tonight and coolant/charge temps more stable with ducting too. Charge temps barely moving above ambient on the move.

Spare hour this morning. First job, oil and filter change. Assume position. I seen a 12 point oil filter wrench designed for the renaults of this era a while back which was recommended for the meganes, and bought one (BGS Technic 8259). BGS 8259 Tried it out this time and its amazing. Im...

No difference in wishbones. Use oem bushes up front for road and occasional track, febi bushes seemed ok oem equivalent when i fitted a set years ago to a 265. Track use only use uniball bushes. Dont bother with poly bushes on front wishbones, they are crap as the rears cannot rotate like oem.

200k club for the Blue dci today. Ive got a few site visits on and working in the big smoke for a week soon so will be going up quite a bit more.

Meg ndo box gets me working a bit, had sweat on doing the trophy😆

Bench press it in place and hold with one hand whilst threading a bolt in has always been my method..jc5 is light so super easy. On a serious note the studs/box spline hold it in whilst getting a bolt in. First thing to check is that the clutch release bearing is still in place and has not...

Looks normal.

Id imagine bearings be cheap shite in them. I fitted a mintex pair recently and they also had cheap bearings in. Main issue for premature fail is prob missing spacer or incorrectly torqued. Absolute eyes out at £350. £110 in parts and an hr to fit on a lift. Id replace with Snr or oem renault...

Bearing issue that, can see caliper is not moving and wheel is in vid. Age old axle spacer issue and prob a cheap disc/bearing. Super easy to do yet so many get it wrong.

Download renault visu to suit the years required and cross ref. I had the 182 wiring diagram when i done my standalone ecu wiring harness Ph2 2003 visu is on here. https://turborenault.co.uk/Visu/Clio2ph2/ENG/HTM/ENTREE.HTM

Also if your using a manual tensioner, you will need a seem gauge to check and set cambelt tension via frequency.

You will need the catcams kit that temporarily replaces the cam cover, to degree the cams properly with dti and timing wheel. https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/cat-cams-locking-tool-for-f4r-engines

1.2 does not have 8k redline so not right. Apart from that will work. Might need to reprogram a few things (asr, cruise etc) depending on spec.

Done a few jobs on this ep3 today. Built engine, haltech ecu etc. Think around 700hp, its done low 10sec qtr. Rust free underneath 4wd crv box etc. Sexy Haltech dash. Sadly its had some work done poorly recently with a large bill to suit and came back with a few issues. I had a look at it...

Faulty egr or wiring issues near egr plug.

Easy fix that. I found the oem nut/washer binds them up when fully tightened. New washer and nut solved the issue, failing that removing a mm of the brass on a belt sander will give the same result.

Updates Daily driver this week, why not. Ive been having fun driving it and low mpg is the result. Apart from that its perfect, fast enough, easy to drive, ac ice cold etc what more do you need for a daily?! Anyway i snipered a set of radiator ducts from U pull it a few weeks ago as mine were...

With this done i give it a clean off as front was covered in flies and loads of road muck up the sides. Gtechniq fallout remover to reactivate the ceramic, Gtechniq bug remover, BH autofoam, Gtechniq Gwash and rinsed off with water filter/blow dried. Sounds like a 3 hour wash, in reality it was...

Updates. Noticed n/s rear brake pad had worn on the piss when getting tyres changed last week. Ive never touched the rear brakes on this and this was the first time the rear wheels have actually been off in my ownership - rear pad notch was not located in the piston cutout..rectified it before...

The handbrake mech is an absolute pain in the arse from memory. Front ones are a breeze in comparison.

Prob a bad injector. Test the resistance of the injectors, should give you an indication if one is knackered

Usually end up with a right mess of brake fluid/trying to get the piston over the seal with caliper in situ :LOL:

If all else fails new calipers are around £35 each.