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Yeah over to the left and up, tighten the rod up and it’s all good. Done both of mine like that over the years. And make sure the gearbox is in reverse also.

I used a bunjee cord to hold it over in reverse and tighten underneath, never had an issue doing it that way

What tyres would people recommend for a low boost 182? Just an occasional drive on the road, I’ve got ar1’s for track days.

The steering wheel is horrendous. The engine cover and injector cover being missing is pretty normal these days, they don’t find their way back on after oil changes. It looks okay in pictures, check for rust in the fuel filler flap and around the arches. The only little red flag for me is why...

I imagine the connectors on to the rear lights will be corroded, clean them up and it should fix it unless they’re too far gone.

If you wanted a pair to refurb I’m pretty sure I’ve got some I would sell.

Having been in your predicament, deciding to replace it putting it back together and it leaking again after a dyno session, I’m definitely on the side of leave it alone unless it’s pissing out. I was not happy pulling it apart again.

Cool, I’ll see how it goes and bare that in mind 👌🏻

I’ve advertised it for £2800 and £1750 for the box but obviously I’m open to offers

I agree, but in this case I have the engine out of my race car which i have built and used, it’s also the engine out of this car originally.

That’s good to know, in my head I was at £2.5k the lot or £4k inc the gearbox. It is standard pistons and rods. Made 248hp when mapped. I’d also sell it dressed with the cup alternator setup and loom so you could throw it in. If bought with the gearbox would also come with the RTS turbo clutch...

I’m thinking about converting my 182 back to N/A meaning I’d sell the engine, turbo kit etc but no idea what it’s worth. Engine was built by @GrahamS and Alex at Awmotorworks back in 2020. ED turbo kit with Garrett GT2560R turbo. 13 row mocal oil cooler. Engine Machined and rebuilt from a...

I have a group n tool that I would sell if you’re interested?

That’s worth repairing it’s just maintenance items.

lol small world that’s the actual x85 I won the birkett 6 hour in 😆 haven’t seen that car about in 10 years!

Jesus I didn’t realise they were now that much, that’s the answer to the OP then 😆

It’s got a £10k+ transmission to begin with

This is the car I wish mine was, looks great!

End of year 750 motor club race meeting. Yes race meeting where you need a licence to compete, it’s the same every year 😂

I’ve never understood the attraction of doing the plum pudding, just guaranteed to ruin your Christmas when you write your car off or blow it up.

Long story short I want to enter some rounds of the castle Combe Hot Hatch Series, but all cars are required to fit a dry break for fuel sampling. My next question has anyone done this and how do I do it? My setup is standard plastic fuel rail, OEM fuel lines and running standard power. If it’s...

I fitted this one to mine no issues when I had it https://ebay.us/m/3U1iPx

I have one, and I’m sure a guy on the Facebook page still makes them.

I had the exact same symptoms on a Macan when I worked at Porsche, sheath of the wheel speed sensor looked good, but when tested it had a broken wire inside that only went open circuit when the wheel was turned max to the left.

Daily drove it for 6 years according to the ad on Facebook.

It was built and owned by Darragh from everything m3 so he probably knew what he wanted out of it.

When I get back on track in mine in the new year more than welcome to come along to a track day and I can take you out in it

They’re fine if done properly, mine will happily do 15-20 minute sessions on a hot day.

Cool I’ll check it out. My car is built to class B of hot hatch which is 175 bhp/tonne limit. Mine makes 182bhp and is 1070kg with me in it.

Who’s that run with? I’m looking to do 750mc hot hatch again next year in mine but still looking for other options.