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Strange one. So my brothers got a 197. He bought it from a dealer without me taking a look witg him, he's kind of a spare of the moment guy.
The deal was they done a cambelt and water pump, I know it's been done as the parts are in the boot.
Any way it makes this noise once warm if not driven...
Yeah sorry buddy. Like I say if you were local it'd take me 5 mins to sort out.
Because it has a DPF the oil quality is constantly monitored to prevent contamination from regeneration and over fueling braking up the oil.
Problem is you can reset the service light but if ypu don't reset the oil...
The nemo and bipper both use the fiat engine which has a DPF filter with oil quality monitoring.
You've done the right thing by changing the oil, all you need to do now is reset the parameters of the oil quality sensor and the service light. Both done through a scanner.
If you just have an...
Totally agree with you. A dash, trims, ecu let alone the airbags would write off most cars! Ive always used a fuse for personal preference as i consider its a fail safe if any current is left in the circuit.
Now that is very true, didnt think of that! Plus im sure on a car our ages, if it was to deploy the airbags the insurance company wouldnt cosider it cost effect to repair!
Leak off test on the injectors and check the crank pressure and running pressure on a scanner ideally. Peugeot DV6 engines come up with similar problems and from experience through winter months and is 9 times out of 10 a clogged fuel filter as diesel fuel congeals. This can intern damage the...
As dan said, bad earth. You may find you have a bad earth on the pump loom, when the relay kicks in it will give 12v using the earth through the relay but once the resistance builds up it will drop out. Maybe confirm this by splicing an earth directly at the pump and see what happens
Just a note if you are going to use a resistor in line with an airbag loom your best fitting with a fuse too. In the event of the airbags or pretensioner going off it will blow the fuse and not the ecu.
Go genuine with the modified loom. And yes it will cut out unexpectedly. It's an inductive pulse sensor and there for doesn't always bring a fault code. The internal coils tend to brake down with heat and age so go genuine always with the crank sensor
All vehicles will has some sort of pressure switch. Whether it's the conventional way of a switched earth oil switch with a lamp on the binical or via the ecu and only come on during low pressure situations
Awesome! So just a set of pads and lambda. I'm assuming your capable of fitting the pads, just ensure the two spring clips on correctly and the piston is turned correctly to lock on the pad tab.
As for the lambda reading what did you get after the second idle, if it's bot too far out its...
Looks like the airbag harness? See where your thumb is there's two raised bits, slide a small flat head in there and release the tab if it's what I'm thinking
Also good diagnosis on the wiring plug, turned out its saggy pins
I'd be splicing in a new earth like said. You'll have one feed down to the fog and b/l bulb ensure your getting 12v right through the plug and in the actual bulb holder and that water/rust isn't shorting the two. If you've got all that and it's good then a new earth or poor pins in the connector...
If you got no gas in there, which you can check by briefly pressing one of the schrader valve cores....whip the bumper off and the condenser is infront of the radiator, providing there's no gas in there its definitely a diy job but will need to be vac'd and charged after.
Probably about 80 quid...
An oil pressure switch works by switching an earth, it's on the front of the block, single wire. Your oil pressure light should stay on all the time the engine isn't running as there's no oil pressure. It should be on with ignition, start engine and go out a second after once oil pressure has...
There's a possibility that a high pressure pump could have been installed to up the fuel pressure which may have been in-line with a filter? I'd stick your head under the car and look for a fuel filter which is infront of the fuel tank. Most intank fuel pumps have a mesh filter to prevent the...
You may find you will have a bit more smoke than usual as your removing the recirculation.
I've only seem it in some cases where the ecu tries to 'egr' and can't due to a gummed up valve or blanked valve and will throw a code relating to restricted flow. The only way round it would be to run a...
No reason why that wouldn't work, very simple but makes sense, sits between the ball and cup joint.
You might through some codes up into ecu and cause it to go into limp due to restricted flow but only one way to find out!
If you've got hid headlamps you'll need the washers for mot as well as the adjuster on the rear beam. Best thing to do is first listen for the pump. Headlamps on and within the first cycle pull the washers. You should hear the pump. If you can't hear it, check the fuse, all OK, then remove the...
You've got the spring clamps on the cat down pipe which squeak.
To me sounds like engine movement making another component move more than normal as you say it happens at bitting point, does the gearstick move backwards and forwards? It's worth sticking in some folded cardboard between all three...
If the tester has done all he can to ensure the engine and cat are as warm as possible he can't 'make' a car fail on emissions so won't matter what tester you get.
I guarantee a new cat will sort that
As above, low or no gas means pressure switch won't allow the compressor to activate. Listen for the click if your unsure what the clutch free wheel pulley looks like.
Four years and no regas sounds like your culprit.
Just get it to a garage with the correct equipment and request uv dye so if...