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They are building new houses on a road I travel every day. Road is covered in mud and when it rains it might as well be a rally stage. I'd spent all bank holiday weekend trying to fix a misfire on a disastra and was flying to Dublin first thing Wednesday so was rushing round the Metro buying...

Sounds like it was mine! Spot on about needing a wash haha.

I just used chemical metal to blank mine off as it's never going to need to go back to hydraulic. I did mine off the car but should manage with it on especially once all the PAS pipes are out of the way.

Sorry got the colours the wrong way round lol. Loop blue and block yellow.

Not a great picture but block all the ports in blue. Connect together the two ports in yellow. I just used the original fittings and piece of brake pipe

I've had both a DCI rack and looped rack on mine. I much prefer the looped rack, it has a better feel to it and feels stronger too.

I seem to remember the bloke from PMS saying the bearings are Teflon lined and you shouldn't use petroleum based lubricants on them.

Knocking sounds like the rack bolts arent tight and letting the rack shift side to side.

If the valve timing is off this could cause low compression on all cylinders. Not sure if it would cause the smoke you mentioned though. Wrong timing is also quite common on these engines due to the fully floating cam pulleys.

I got 3 of the 4 bolts out by levering and turning at the same time. 4th was going nowhere though, had to chop it out and replace the bolt.

I had big issues trying to get mine to seal. The flange on the cat had warped. I ended up cutting the flange off the cat and making a sleeve join with the centre section.

I'd make a thread on the car detailing it's current condition and any work you do to it. Then when/if you come to sell you can show people that although it's had a chequered history it's now just as good as any other RS. Plus it is in LY and has sat nav. As long as the car drives well I dont...

Bigg Red should have them.

I just used metal putty to plug the holes and made the loop with a bit of brake pipe.

I've had the subframe off today so while I was there I checked the steering rack bolts, which is much easier off the car! Despite doing them as tight as I could when I orginally fitted the rack they still took another half a turn off the car. We will see what difference this makes with sticky...

Fitted some Uniroyal MSPlus 77's after using the 66's last year. Unbelievable amounts of grip on the white stuff, but also excellent in just the cold. I have a feeling they saved my bacon last year when I hit some frozen run off water mid bend. Would have deifinately been in to the kerb if I...

I'd be looking at the injector too as you suggest. It would seem cylinder 1 is running lean due to lack of fuel and getting very hot. Hopefully no damage has been done to the piston.

Put a spanner on the lambda and hammer the crap out of it, worked on a good few stuck sensors for me.

An interesting observation. I switched from my AD08R's to my winters a couple of weeks ago. The winters obviously have considerably less grip on a dry surface than the AD08R's and since fitting them I havent had a single knock.

Also if the master cylinder was totally dry you may need to take it off and bench bleed it first.

Its the gases blowing out from where its a bit loose, makes a tapping noise. Same as if you have a small hole in your exhaust manifold, that makes a tappy noise too.

Plug(s) loose I'd say, had it happen on mine 40k after changing plugs and tightening to spec.

Just a thought, has anyone tried a 197/200 rack for size? Although a quick Google shows a lot of issues with these knocking too, similar issue to what we are experiencing maybe?

I'll give this a go next time I'm under the car. I thought I'd done them FT but as you say they aren't easy to get to so I could have easily tightened them less than I thought I had.

I blanked the ports up near the pinion and linked the 2 ports that are on the rack body. Drained 90% of the fluid before looping.

My noise stopped for a good few months after fitting the looped rack so I don't imagine it's the UJ or column otherwise the noise would have never gone away.

My current thinking is that with the motor being on the column all of the turning force goes through the pinion gear. When the load is too high it sometimes locks up and then suddenly releases, causing the knock. With the hydraulic setup there's actually not much turning force going through...

I had that issue on both of my DCi racks, running AD08R's and -1.5 camber. Changed to a looped PAS rack and it's much better. Still get the odd knock when parking on high grip surfaces though, can't really pin down what's causing it, seems like the noise comes from within the rack.

Have you dropped the oil from the box and checked if there's metal in there?

Got any gear to measure the lateral run out?