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The new compound came out cheaper than 1144's on the couple of cars I've got it on so far. It's a really nice fast road pad too.

Yes I have them on the 406, they've been great, feel like halfway between 1144 and 1155 - they have the cold performance of 1144 but the fade resistance and bite of 1155. Quiet pads too - in fact quieter than my OE ones, pedal feel is firm and consistant, the only downside so far is they're a...

Nothing, and I mean *nothing* matched this all morning at a damp Oulton park track. The only thing that came past was a Radical on slicks when it dried up after dinner: People seriously overestimate how much gain they get from running lower versus actually having complaint suspension and...

Were you looking at something fully adjustable or more on the budget track side just for some adjustment? I did similar for the 306's with some custom Foxes at one point, they've got a bit pricy since then though...

Ah okay they're just a generic threaded rod with an adaptor in there. Yea, Spax and co will still just swap the entire shaft out, they won't drill and swap the fittings, it's not worth their time when there's shafts on the shelf, plus the risk of marring the plating. I've an old Gaz guy around...

The insert is the main part of the damper, of course that's gonna be the most expensive bit, the shaft is damaged and the rebound adjuster is toast and even a rebuild is gonna be a shaft and a complete strip and reassembly. Shafts are £50-70 alone. Those Gaz's are shot with that plating damage too.

'cause most people aren't running enough droop and are too low for anything outside an aero car.

Polycam works fairly well just from anything that has a decent depth camera. Often means you end up using the front cam instead of the rear one though.

But yes, you'd want a motorsport specialist really, most garages won't even touch it and the ones that do weld are scary. And a lot of welding firms are generally setup for bench or heavy fabrication work rather than thin old steel and tubework with awkward access.

Welding is fairly easy Welding a cage and getting it fitting correctly, upside down with your head wedged in a footwell when you can barely see, is another matter completely. If it's a premade cage and you're just welding footpads in, sure.

First event of the year at Parkwood Off Road in Tong this weekend if anyone is nearby and wants a trip out, racing today and Sunday too.

I mean I did that to a set of goodyears and the michelins before 'em on a 1.4 306. Depends what you're doing :D

Kuhmo's have been winning a lot of tyre tests with the HS51 and HS52 the past few years, I just bought a set for my daily and they're lovely tbfh, can't fault them wet or dry.

Careful some of the Pugs had 30mm and 32mm rear piston options.

That seems incredibly tight for thrust washer clearance if it is, especially on this size 4 cylinder. Most stuff is 0.1-0.4mm in this displacement? 0.023 wouldn't even leave enough for thermal expansion?

Yea I do my own usually so rather cheaper. This was the state of my daily flywheel I took of the Pug last time I had the box off: So I bead blasted it but you can still see the uneven area's from the carbide hot spots: .... And then I decided to skim it slightly and got a little carried...

Not really, most production car stuff has allowance for about a mm of wear anyway - it's often why they have the step on the face to start with, so you have a reference to measure from. No real issue with resurfacing the vast majority of flywheels, I've done dozens over the years. Might have to...

Yep, the clutch is heavy because the diaphragm has gone so far over centre from wear it's no longer assisting/self servoing. Same on most french stuff from this era, 306s, 205s, Clios, Xsara's, they all do the same.

A lot of modern cars skip more on full lock - cars haven't run anywhere near full ackerman geometry for a while now, gets worse with wider tyres too.

I've got some Dunlops on the daily that do the same thing, they're going shortly, got some Kuhmos to replace the awful bloody things

It's very common with them for other components too. You're getting what you paid for, they never state any different. Both their cheaper pagid and eicher offerings were made by the factory in Scotland up until a few years ago (often the exact same parts in different boxes) that's why the...

Probably, I didn't buy 'em but I suspect so (fwiw, in case others don't know, ECP quite often licence the rights to use names such as brembo on their own sourced discs and pads. Which is why brembo pads from ECP are so cheap. And s**t.)

Ironically I had this with the last set of drilled Brembo's I had, you could see how s**t the casting shifts were though, ended up slapping some cheap discs on, been fine since. Brembo's certainly aren't what they used to be, they're even subbed out to other foundaries these days.

Honestly top mounts generally alter geometery so little it'd be hard to say it could be anything drastically out.

Honestly they're loose enough you could probably just knock them out with a socket or a punch through the holes and a hammer, even working on them outside on the street, they're not that big a bearing and it's only an alloy housing.

1144's are always great as a fast road pad but they won't cope with long track sessions, not a big fan of 2500's, the Pagids will be great although last time I tried them they are a little wooden the first few stops in the cold. I'll throw them out here but Carbotech XP8/10 both are comparable...

It's both balance, and to break up squeal harmonics (which is why you sometimes see them in 2-3 spots the same depth)

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