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BB Tuning X-Tra low -40mm springs





Does anyone have any pics of these springs fitted to their cup, i would be interested to see how much lower they make the car look.
 

Ali

  V6, Trackhawk, GTS


Guessing similar to the apex springs...same drop?
Little Newms used to have them, sure hes hav the pics still.
 


They ARE Apex springs. Little Newms had them on his cup as did Chris172cup so they might have some pics of the car with them fitted.
 
  Weeman sucks ****


Cheers Newms, saves me trawling through:D

They dont lower a 172 cup as much as a 182 or mk1 172. Dunno what it is with the original, proper cup when it ccomes to springs?!

[Edited by CHRIS172CUP on 9/8/2005 10:50:12 AM]
 


Fantastic thanks for the super quick response. did they lower it as much as you thought they would and did they improve the handling.

Would you recommend them?
 
  Weeman sucks ****


Theyre ok especially for the money and the only spring out there that will drop it as stated. The Eibach pros and sportlines DO NOT lower a 172 cup (sportlines maybe a nats c**k at the front) although theyre a better spring being progressive.
 


Apex are great VFM if you want a good drop but be aware they are a firmer ride than std springs. If you can afford it get H&R coilovers youll never look back trust me.
 
  MKIII 138


Quote: Originally posted by Loony on 08 September 2005


Apex are great VFM if you want a good drop but be aware they are a firmer ride than std springs. If you can afford it get H&R coilovers youll never look back trust me.
once youve fitted H&R do you need camber adjustment and tracking done, last itme i fitted koni adjustables (not coilovers) i went through tyres every two months from uneven wear, then once i had a full professional alignment done with camber change it was peachy.

also how the hell do you know what the best setting is ??
 


You dont need camber bolts unless you want to piss about with the camber. Mine was natually running about -1.5 degree at a ride height of about -55mm at the front which is perfectly fine for a road car. The inner edges will wear slightly faster but not significantly.

Setting? if you mean damper settings then the H&Rs are fixed but the rate is bang on IMO. As for camber youd probably not want to go more than -2 degrees if you want to keep the wear even.
 
  MKIII 138


Quote: Originally posted by Loony on 08 September 2005


You dont need camber bolts unless you want to piss about with the camber. Mine was natually running about -1.5 degree at a ride height of about -55mm at the front which is perfectly fine for a road car. The inner edges will wear slightly faster but not significantly.

Setting? if you mean damper settings then the H&Rs are fixed but the rate is bang on IMO. As for camber youd probably not want to go more than -2 degrees if you want to keep the wear even.






unless my garage were taking the piss they said my new shocks and springs caused the camber to be -2 deg out on each side. i assume adding aftermarket suspension afects the camber hence you need to get it aligned again every time you add coilovers or just springs etc..

also if H&R are fixed does that mean you cannot alter firmness or ride height ? if so how di you get -50/55mm ???

[Edited by meggerman on 08 September 2005 at 11:36am]
 


i have the optiline print out of my 172 at home and it shows -1.5 on the front, this was done using laser alignment. my tyres tend to last 6,000 because of the way i drive it but the inner edge was about the same as the outer edge (bearing in mind the outer edge takes all the load and gets scrubbed when cornering). unless you drive 6k or more every 2 months you wont be replacing them due to the wear on -1.5 camber.

the ride height is adjustible -25 to -75 at the front and -25 to -55 on the rear on H&Rs the damping is fixed but as i said they ride perfectly while removing the bodyroll.
 
  MKIII 138


Quote: Originally posted by Loony on 08 September 2005


i have the optiline print out of my 172 at home and it shows -1.5 on the front, this was done using laser alignment. my tyres tend to last 6,000 because of the way i drive it but the inner edge was about the same as the outer edge (bearing in mind the outer edge takes all the load and gets scrubbed when cornering). unless you drive 6k or more every 2 months you wont be replacing them due to the wear on -1.5 camber.

the ride height is adjustible -25 to -75 at the front and -25 to -55 on the rear on H&Rs the damping is fixed but as i said they ride perfectly while removing the bodyroll.





are yu meant to have the same lowering in mms at the front to the rear ?? is it easy to get an exact lowered figure.

the point i was making was my tyres wore so badly after just 2000miles they had to be replaced this was blamed on the aftermarket suspension... does aftermarket suspension effect the cars original camber settings ? not in terms of degrees but in terms of physcially altering the way/firmness ride to make the camber adjust incorrectly
 


yup i had it lowered the same front and rear 55mm. you bacially measure the height before and after either sill to the ground or from the centre of the wheel to the centre of the arch.

firmness wont affect tyre wear, camber will as will toe but not how hard the ride is. It shouldnt wear that quickly in 2,000 miles tbh sounds like the tracking may have been out. tyre pressure also effects how tyres wear btw. aftermarket kits springs and strut as well as coilovers CAN effect camber but not in all cases
 


I had mine checked and all the alignmet was done, the camber on clios isnt adjustible unless you use camber bolts. That ride height on my H&Rs produced the -1.5 camber, different kits may produce different levels of camber obviouslt i wont know which and how much. I was happy with -1.5 so left it at that. Id say if you dont want to have uneven tyre wear the only way you will ensure it (as much as you can do) is have all the alginment done on the car so there is no toe in or out get camber bolts and have any camber dialed out to 0 and make sure the tyres are at the correct pressures. Personally though i feel -1.5 was fine and the increased wear on the onside edge wasnt drastic enough to worry about.
 
  MKIII 138


is there a practical reason for -1.5 i think thats what the place did once i had it all done and they didnt wear anymore. i.e is 0 deg condusive to less acurate or sharp ride ? is the -1.5 deg doesnt seem like much.

so lets say i get some H&R for a 172cup wheres the cheapes place to get a set ? ktec do them around £750 inc VAT i think... anywhere cheaper ?
 


Theres no reason for 1.5 as such its just a figure that seems to give a balance of camber thats better for cornering but not producing massively reduced tyre lifespans.

Shop around they can be had for as low as £650/670 from some places. Off the top of my head motorsportswheels and r-tec sell them but id have a trawl around the net and see whos best.
 

Little Newms

ClioSport Club Member
  182, D2 Td5 & 840CI


Please Please Please.... save up for some H&Rs

On a serious note, if i just got my Cup and was offered one of these packages....

1) Full exhaust system, de cat etc.... induction kit, and smt remap

OR

2) A set of H&R coilovers

I would take the coilovers hands down....

there that good :D
 
  MKIII 138


cant say fairer than that !

just worried il get them on and my tyres will start to wear uneven as a result of fitting.

btw its not too firm or bouncy is it ?? when i got the konis orginally id was sooooo hard not damped at all just rock solid and awful until i moved onto a different setup.
 


They arent firm or bouncy. They run helper springs at the front which iron out the small bumps in the road and firmer main springs which take care of the bodyroll. tbh id say the actually ride better than the standard suspension. Smoother yet none of the bodyroll of the standard car, turn in is faster and sharper than standard too.
 
  Weeman sucks ****


H&Rs are far better than the standard setup, mine feels amazing and as said, soaks up all the little bumps with ease. Less bodyroll and are a perfect mod for the cup...probably the best imo.

If you have the money its best to get the corners weighted but it can take up to about 6 hours and is a pain in the arse. I had my H&Rs setup by eye the best way they can be not so long ago along with nearly 2 degrees of camber iirc! The car was transformed even with the worn front tyres (and we all know how these cars get affected by tramlining?!).

Best mod, get the money for them, youll love em.
 


Quote: Originally posted by Little Newms on 08 September 2005


Please Please Please.... save up for some H&Rs

On a serious note, if i just got my Cup and was offered one of these packages....

1) Full exhaust system, de cat etc.... induction kit, and smt remap

OR

2) A set of H&R coilovers

I would take the coilovers hands down....

there that good :D
Id get both you big gay.
 


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