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Easy job, the rear lamps have to come off but are only held in with a finger nut, undo this, gently remove light, then you have access to the bulbs on the rear lights.
i fitted silver bulbs all round in mine matey... rears just popped off and were both done in a couple of minutes as Mike said. front right was done in 30 seconds, front left took about 20 minutes after i somehow didnt push it back in straight and still tried using brute force to tighten it. got it totally jammed at an angle and had to force it out, breaking half of one of the little plastic tabs on the holder.