ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
fujifilm s6500fd
- Thread starter xxxic3xxx
- Start date
That's not a bad price.
I paid £140 for the camera, about £20 for the bag, £23 for the 2gb type H card, then about £9 for 8 2700mah batteries, all from different places, mostly online.
And, as you ask, this is a completely gratuitous selection of pics from mine
I'm very happy with mine - it's flexible as I could want without going full Digital SLR and spending a fortune on lenses lol
I paid £140 for the camera, about £20 for the bag, £23 for the 2gb type H card, then about £9 for 8 2700mah batteries, all from different places, mostly online.
And, as you ask, this is a completely gratuitous selection of pics from mine
I'm very happy with mine - it's flexible as I could want without going full Digital SLR and spending a fortune on lenses lol
ahh good to know
ooh good to hear
Fujifilm s6500fd camera with 1gp xd memory card and bag. price came to £186.00 all together I think.
yup, about the same price we (pc world) sell it for.
J273
ClioSport Club Member
RB 182
That's not a bad price.
I paid £140 for the camera, about £20 for the bag, £23 for the 2gb type H card, then about £9 for 8 2700mah batteries, all from different places, mostly online.
And, as you ask, this is a completely gratuitous selection of pics from mine
I'm very happy with mine - it's flexible as I could want without going full Digital SLR and spending a fortune on lenses lol
wow good pics....Ive got this camera....aint got a clue what half the stuff does.......where all these taken in auto mode?
Thanks
Skoda Fabia Vrs 180b
I bought the s9600 yesterda and it is fffffb. Need a lot of practice with it but had sunderland air show yesterday, north east motorshow next week and british superbikes the week after \o/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10657762@N05/
a couple fo mine. was just stuck on auto mode as I had only bought it an hour before I went to the show
oh and go to www.7dayshop.com for all your accessories. very very cheap and great service
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10657762@N05/
a couple fo mine. was just stuck on auto mode as I had only bought it an hour before I went to the show
oh and go to www.7dayshop.com for all your accessories. very very cheap and great service
Nope! lol
The car ones were taken in Program (P) mode, as were most of the daylight shots. ISO set to 100. Program mode is basically auto mode but you get to pick the Aperture (F number in the bottom of the screen) and the corresponding length of exposure for a good shot, so you can have slow shots to get movement behind a car you're tracking, or you can have a quick exposure to freeze the action. Also, changing the F number gives you a different depth of field (Higher F number = more in focus, whereas lower F number = only really what you're focusing on in focus).
That's a bit simplistic though lol
The dark/night shots were Manual (M), again at ISO 100 and a long exposure of 15+ seconds with a tripod
Have a read of http://www.28dayslater.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=11237!
thanks for posting the piucs up, i was wathing the air show earlier today on tv for a bit, and thought i shuda went down and got some pics, nvm, also, (person who 1st posted pics;p) i like yours alot, especialy the bridge shot, and the "wooden iglu" shot? haha, niiice. thanks for all the coments
Punto/Clio GTT
J273
ClioSport Club Member
RB 182
Nope! lol
The car ones were taken in Program (P) mode, as were most of the daylight shots. ISO set to 100. Program mode is basically auto mode but you get to pick the Aperture (F number in the bottom of the screen) and the corresponding length of exposure for a good shot, so you can have slow shots to get movement behind a car you're tracking, or you can have a quick exposure to freeze the action. Also, changing the F number gives you a different depth of field (Higher F number = more in focus, whereas lower F number = only really what you're focusing on in focus).
That's a bit simplistic though lol
The dark/night shots were Manual (M), again at ISO 100 and a long exposure of 15+ seconds with a tripod
Have a read of http://www.28dayslater.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=11237!
lol didnt thinks so
Thanks for the link ill give it a read
Cheers
J273
ClioSport Club Member
RB 182
Ive just had a quick read through that....seems a good guide
Just one thing....Ive set the camera to M mode
Its says on there
'Set your f stop to f8 and increase your exposure length to 10/15 seconds. You should be able to see on the LCD screen the
correct combination of exposure vs f stop which will produce an acceptable image. If you can't see anything on the LCD and
you're sure it's switched on, either lower the f stop until you see the preview image appear on the LCD or shine a torch
on the subject you're trying to shoot. Take a shot.'
So does this mean set the camera to 10 shutter speed and set the f8 by holding the exposer compensation button and setting it to f8 :S
Also the exposer indicator bar is it best to get the yellow dot thing in the middle of the bar to get a good shot
Sorry total begineer to all this and have read the manual back to front.
Thanks
Just one thing....Ive set the camera to M mode
Its says on there
'Set your f stop to f8 and increase your exposure length to 10/15 seconds. You should be able to see on the LCD screen the
correct combination of exposure vs f stop which will produce an acceptable image. If you can't see anything on the LCD and
you're sure it's switched on, either lower the f stop until you see the preview image appear on the LCD or shine a torch
on the subject you're trying to shoot. Take a shot.'
So does this mean set the camera to 10 shutter speed and set the f8 by holding the exposer compensation button and setting it to f8 :S
Also the exposer indicator bar is it best to get the yellow dot thing in the middle of the bar to get a good shot
Sorry total begineer to all this and have read the manual back to front.
Thanks
Are you shooting dark rooms / night time shots? I presume so with a 10s exposure! lol
Be aware that 10 seconds is 10" on the LCD display, not 10, as 10 is 10th of a second
I find that on the S6500fd you can still see a preview of what you're shooting on the LCD regardless of what settings you have, but if you have it on Manual and have incorrect settings, the picture will just come out too dark or too light.
You are right to assume that you change the F numbers by pressing the button by the shutter button and then pressing up and down on the navigation thingy on the back
Your best bet is to not worry too much about F numbers at the minute and concentrate on working out what sort of effects you get with different exposure times.
Get it set up in a fixed position, then go from a quick exposure to a long exposure - then you can see what it's like when it underexposes and overexposes.
Then, when you've got a feel for how long you need to expose a pic for, set the ideal time and play with F numbers from one end of the scale to the other. They make quite a difference to the brightness of the picture.
Ideally you'll get to the point when you know what F numbers to use in conjunction with what exposure times to get a good picture - but that's partly why I use Program mode quite a lot, as that's what it does for you (gives you the range of shots you can get away with).
Be aware that 10 seconds is 10" on the LCD display, not 10, as 10 is 10th of a second
I find that on the S6500fd you can still see a preview of what you're shooting on the LCD regardless of what settings you have, but if you have it on Manual and have incorrect settings, the picture will just come out too dark or too light.
You are right to assume that you change the F numbers by pressing the button by the shutter button and then pressing up and down on the navigation thingy on the back
Your best bet is to not worry too much about F numbers at the minute and concentrate on working out what sort of effects you get with different exposure times.
Get it set up in a fixed position, then go from a quick exposure to a long exposure - then you can see what it's like when it underexposes and overexposes.
Then, when you've got a feel for how long you need to expose a pic for, set the ideal time and play with F numbers from one end of the scale to the other. They make quite a difference to the brightness of the picture.
Ideally you'll get to the point when you know what F numbers to use in conjunction with what exposure times to get a good picture - but that's partly why I use Program mode quite a lot, as that's what it does for you (gives you the range of shots you can get away with).
Sorry, forgot about this bit lol
If you want to experiment with different exposures, set it up to use Bracketing. (I think it's the other button near the shutter button, third one down the dropdown menu of 5?)
You can set Bracketing to be 1/3rd or 2/3rds or even more - I use 2/3rds so the effect is more noticeable, but 1/3 will give more subtle changes
Hope that makes sense when you come to play with it lol
Yellow thing in the middle is good to aim for - you'll find when you're shooting in P mode that sometimes it's nearer one end or the other, especially in dark or light pictures. When that happens I think you can adjust the exposure by [pressing that exposure button mentioned earlier and] (<< I think) pressing left and right on the control thingy on the back
If you want to experiment with different exposures, set it up to use Bracketing. (I think it's the other button near the shutter button, third one down the dropdown menu of 5?)
You can set Bracketing to be 1/3rd or 2/3rds or even more - I use 2/3rds so the effect is more noticeable, but 1/3 will give more subtle changes
Hope that makes sense when you come to play with it lol
lol Don't take offence about not getting a reply, I (and others) probably just didn't see your post!
Will look forward to the pics
Will look forward to the pics
cool!
lol No, I'm not sure either!
If you download FastStone Viewer (I think it's called?) you can get all the info up on the Full Screen view of the original photo file, plus you can resize and watermark in batches, saving you lots of work!
If you download FastStone Viewer (I think it's called?) you can get all the info up on the Full Screen view of the original photo file, plus you can resize and watermark in batches, saving you lots of work!
Cool
