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gearbox problem



  clio 20v


after being in traffic for ages in my valver and the car being really hot its really difficult to get in gear

as soon as it cools down its ok again do i need new gearbox oil or summat or is my gearbox about to drop out

adi
 


I get that problam in my RT. Thankfully I live in the country and on the rare occasion I venture into the cities near me it doesnt happen that often. But when it does (as you say, when it gets very hot) it wont go in gear straight away. You have to give a real push. Its mainly first and second gear. Also I noticed yesterday (went into sheffield) it jumped out of second as i was acclerating away from traffic lights, at that point it was very very hot. But today, I was just pulling out of the car park at work (the car had been stood still and off for about 6.5 hours) as I balanced the clutch and allerator and then got the bite and pulled through it (just normally, took about 1 second) it jumped out again. So I dipped the clutch again but my foot was already on its way down harder on the acclerator so it revved. Made me look a bit stupid. But I knocked it back into gear and reved it again and then released the clutch. Made it look lik was just playing about instead of my car buggering up.

I asked my dad what he thought it might be. He just replied with "bad driving" so I just laughed and walked away.

Paul
 
  clio 20v


i did a search about this and it seems quite a common prob im going to change the gearbox oil with fully synthetic and see if that helps

ive mainly come to the conclusion that the clio gearbox is shat and you have to be a bit rough with it

adi
 
  Clio 172 Cup, Eunos


I had this when i replaced my clutch cable - i damged the manifold heat shield, and when the engine got really hot, it was expanding the clutch cable, so it wouldnt go into gear sometimes - eventually the original gear knob flew off one day coz i was trying to rag it into gear that hard....check the manifold heat sheild?
 
  clio 20v


i was thinkin it mite hav been the clutch and ive had a new clutch cable not so long ago but ive just checked the gearbox oil and i cant feel any in the hole so it might be that

i hope i wont have damaged anything with it being run low on oil cos there is a slight bearing noise that you can just about hear sometimes that ive noticed this week

adi
 


interesting, i ditched my heat shield a while ago and my clutch sometimes pedal sticks a bit if its been running for a while, its like the pedal is stuck abd the it pops sort of cracks off, wont be long before tha cable snaps i think
 
  clio 20v


filled up with gear oil now the box is better but the bearing noise is still there

just left it stood for ages with the engine running and its still hard to get in gear i have noticed though that the biting point has changed from cold so i think the clutch cable is the culprit behind that

WILL16V- how did you fix your heatshield then cos mine isnt damaged but i think the cable might be run wrongly

if the bearing noise gets any worse which it will im gonna need a new box is it better to fit the williams box

adi
 


if your heatshield isnt damaged mate, dont fix it! Just check the clutch cable at both mounting ends, also check for any worn areas along the cable housing. chances are the heatshield isnt a major culprit, mines knackered and i have no problems getting gears etc. (BTW there about 25quid new from renault - ive got the part number if interested)

As for williams box, personally i wouldnt bother if your 1.8 is standard, cant really see how it would improve performance?
 
  Clio 172 Cup, Eunos


I dint repair my heatsheild - just bought a new one from Reno - bout £32 + vat or somthin....

I did the cable myself, but i ran it incorrectly aswell as damaging the heatsheild....it snapped 4 months later about 4 inches behind the fixing on the pedal. - i got a mechanic to do the job for me the second time - i swore too much last time....if you think youve run it through the bulk head wrongly, try a Haynes manual...i did but ran out of patience

If your heatshield is fine, dont bother with it, youve probably routed the cable somewhere it shouldnt be, and the heat from the manifoldit causing the cable to expand, and not working properly ie: going into gear....

As for the box, if the bearing is on its way out, you can just replace it...but its labour intensive so expect a FAT bill for that one!

If u wanna replace the box, i think the only differnce between the 16V and the williams are the gear ratios....so your power band would change, maybe not as fast off the mark but higher top end....id just fit a quality fast road clutch and recon the box if its gonna come out...unless your planning some sort of monsterous engine transplant??!?!?
 
  clio 20v


i didnt do the cable but the garage i took it to didnt inspire confidence as they had it 2 days and i had to take them a haynes manual because they couldnt get it on the pedal, they secured it with 1 zip-tie as well so i know it moves about

so im not sure where its supposed to go now when i look down above the manifold i can see the cable just under the heatshield not far from the exhust, is it supposed to go behind the heat shield,

cheers for the replies

adi
 

coolspot007007

ClioSport Club Member
  Seat Leon Cupra


It shouldnt need securing with a zip tie and it should take a mechanic say an hour max, did my first one on the RT in about 3 hours. Then on the 16v i did it in about an hour and a half. Should be staright forward to get on the pedal. Its the routing you need to be weary of, always check the route before you take the other off, saves a lot of time.

A good trick to get it through the bulkhead - first make sure the black plastic nipple isnt still in the footwell if so, remove. Then get a bloody long screw driver and tie a bit of string to the tip (easier said than done) Then push the screwdriver through the hole in the footwell and you should hit some spongy stuff, keep pushing then you should see it in the bay (remove heat shield first)

Then route you cable up to the bulkhead tie your string round the tip and pull back into footwell. Might need a little jiggle to get the plastic bit to lock in the hole in the footwell. Then open the door lie with you back on over the sill (mmm comfy) and with a torch in the mouth squeeze the self adjuster as you slip it over the back of the pedal INBETWEEN the little furrow thing, make sure it locates and is secure then pump the clutch a bit and try the gears. Job done, money saved :)
 
  clio 20v


hmm could do wiv seeing where its supposed to go then ill have to hav a look at one of the nxt meets at some1 elses

adi
 
  Clio 172 Cup, Eunos


The cable should go through the bulkhead, then down towards the crossmember (think thats what its called), as far a way from the manifold as possible,(not behind the heatshield, below it), then u should route it across towards the passenger side of the car, u can then see it appear where there is more space in the engine bay (left hand side behind battery), then route it towrds the connector on the engine block.

but the cable should not be over-bent/too tightly curved around any part of the engine bay, as it will strain the cable, and try to make sure its not snagged/getting stuck on anything - its harder if youre not sure where the cable was routed to in the first place tho...(bit of a dodgy guide - this is only what i remember)..

The guy who did mine only took a couple of hours to do it (aswell as some other bits and bats) and he seems to have done a good job....do you have a Renualt specialist or a sports car specialist nearby who could advise/do it for you?

Certainly shouldnt take 2 days for a garage to do it (unless they were doing it inbetween M.O.T jobs n stuff)

Will.
 
  clio 20v


i usually take it to abp motorsport but as the cable had snapped i needed a garage in towing distance

the one i picked didnt have a clue on the valver they fitted it on the pedal wrongly and tried telling me my clutch needed replacing

i have got another cable i might put on

adi
 


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