Had it plugged into snap on software and come up injection So I changed everything and still have the issue. It’s only misfiring on idle and up to 2k revs then after that it’s fineHave you plugged it in to see if any fault codes are showing?
Just had a second hand one put in but there was no rattle in it, it only seems to be on idle and up to about 2k revs then it’s fine after thatLamba sensor?
Had them replaced tooNew injectors?
As in, brand new parts?Had them replaced too
Off my previous engine the injectors were perfectly fine on that oneAs in, brand new parts?
I'm assuming you used the correct spark plugs? NGK PFR6E 10.Had it plugged into snap on software and come up injection So I changed everything and still have the issue. It’s only misfiring on idle and up to 2k revs then after that it’s fine
It had bosch plugs in before hand and never had an issue until recently so put the same plugs in but new and hasn’t made a differenceI'm assuming you used the correct spark plugs? NGK PFR6E 10.
NGK are recommended. That's all I've ever used. Lots of people say that Bosch can cause problems, but that's probably through word if mouth than experience.It had bosch plugs in before hand and never had an issue until recently so put the same plugs in but new and hasn’t made a difference
NGK are recommended. That's all I've ever used. Lots of people say that Bosch can cause problems, but that's probably through word if mouth than experience.
I had a 172 years ago and would cough and splutter around 2000 revs then after that was fine. Plugs changed and the problem was gone. The car had only done 38k miles and that was on original NGK plugs.
Usually if it's and injector you'll get the engine management light flash.
Have you tried resetting the fault code?
If you do the little trick of pressing the end of the stalk while turning the key to position 1 you should see a "t' if its an injector stored code. You reset it by pressing the odometer reset button.
Il give that a try mate thanks. I’ve not had any issues with the Bosch injectors and they’ve been in the car a while. It’s just only been recently it’s developed an issue. It did come up saying injection when it was plugged it but since had changed everything from plugs to leads coil pack injectors and fuel rail and still same issue. It only misfires on idle and when it’s revved up to around 2k but then after that it runs fine as soon as it comes to idle again it goes s**t again lolNGK are recommended. That's all I've ever used. Lots of people say that Bosch can cause problems, but that's probably through word if mouth than experience.
I had a 172 years ago and would cough and splutter around 2000 revs then after that was fine. Plugs changed and the problem was gone. The car had only done 38k miles and that was on original NGK plugs.
Usually if it's and injector you'll get the engine management light flash.
Have you tried resetting the fault code?
If you do the little trick of pressing the end of the stalk while turning the key to position 1 you should see a "t _ _ _' if its an injector stored code. You reset it by pressing the odometer reset button.
Check that none of the injectors have come loose? I had this a couple of years ago, kept throwing up an injection fault.Il give that a try mate thanks. I’ve not had any issues with the Bosch injectors and they’ve been in the car a while. It’s just only been recently it’s developed an issue. It did come up saying injection when it was plugged it but since had changed everything from plugs to leads coil pack injectors and fuel rail and still same issue. It only misfires on idle and when it’s revved up to around 2k but then after that it runs fine as soon as it comes to idle again it goes s**t again lol
Checked that, also unplugged the looms to each one of the injectors to see if I could figure out what cylinder but they all misfired worse trying to cut out. It’s doing my head in now lolCheck that none of the injectors have come loose? I had this a couple of years ago, kept throwing up an injection fault.
This code?Check that none of the injectors have come loose? I had this a couple of years ago, kept throwing up an injection fault.
When you do that little diagnostic trick you have to keep pressing the button on the end of the stalk until you come to _ _ _ _ or maybe t _ _ _
Removed the code but now car wont startCheck that none of the injectors have come loose? I had this a couple of years ago, kept throwing up an injection fault.
When you do that little diagnostic trick you have to keep pressing the button on the end of the stalk until you come to _ _ _ _ or maybe t _ _ _
Yeah that was the code for a stored injector fault.Removed the code but now car wont start
So now with that code removed (when I get it started again) should it not misfire any more do you reckon? I have a feeling my battery has died lolYeah that was the code for a stored injector fault.
Removing that code won't stop it from starting.
Maybe somebody else has an idea?
If it was just an intermittent misfire the code should be cleared, but yours obviously isn't intermittent.So now with that code removed (when I get it started again) should it not misfire any more do you reckon? I have a feeling my battery has died lol
The battery is literally 6 month old. My little one was messing around in it and when I drove it earlier the interior light was on, I’m at work and my leads are at home lol. Il have to check if it comes back on when I get it started lolIf it was just an intermittent misfire the code should be cleared, but yours obviously isn't intermittent.
Get a meter on your battery. With the engine off you should be looking at about 12.6v if it's in good condition. If it's 12.4v or below it might be on its way out.
Can you not get some jump leads on and try and start it?
Managed to get it started with a bump start, got it home, checked over this morning wouldn’t turn over again, had a look at everything took inlet off checked over all of it, randomly checked the alternator and noticed the earth had came loose but battery completely drained. Gonna get a new one today. Tightened nut up so hopefully it’s all good! Just need to fix hole in the exhaust before pre lambda think that’s causing some issues with running too. Fingers crossedNot got any leads trapped under the head?
Got it started, drove it home, had a look over this morning to see if the code was still on which it isn’t it’s cleared. For now lolIf it was just an intermittent misfire the code should be cleared, but yours obviously isn't intermittent.
Get a meter on your battery. With the engine off you should be looking at about 12.6v if it's in good condition. If it's 12.4v or below it might be on its way out.
Can you not get some jump leads on and try and start it?
Played it safe and got a new one lol, I need to sort out the hole before the pre cat lambda first then hopefully that should also eliminate the misfire hopefully anyway lolA bit of positive news then . No misfire ? It's probably best to give your battery a good charge of its drained.
The hole might be messing up the fueling. I had a leaking exhaust on a Pug 306 years ago and it affected how it ran. Keep us posted as it'll be interesting to know if the leak was causing the misfire.Played it safe and got a new one lol, I need to sort out the hole before the pre cat lambda first then hopefully that should also eliminate the misfire hopefully anyway lol
Certainly will mate thank you for the helpThe hole might be messing up the fueling. I had a leaking exhaust on a Pug 306 years ago and it affected how it ran. Keep us posted as it'll be interesting to know if the leak was causing the misfire.
So In the end it wasn’t the battery, the live to the starter motor had snapped off, that’s sorted so it’s now firing up first time, the temp fix of the hole has taken away the misfire from what I can tell, I think the Dephaser needs changing now as it slightly knocks/taps but still drives spot on, it has a rough idle though and I just can’t seem to figure it out. I think I’m just going to buy brand new ht leads and injectors when I get the belts changed. Hopefully that should resolve the issue along with a new decat pipe as that’s got the hole in that’s got a temp fix onThe hole might be messing up the fueling. I had a leaking exhaust on a Pug 306 years ago and it affected how it ran. Keep us posted as it'll be interesting to know if the leak was causing the misfire.
I didn't think it would have been the battery with it only being 6 months old.So In the end it wasn’t the battery, the live to the starter motor had snapped off, that’s sorted so it’s now firing up first time, the temp fix of the hole has taken away the misfire from what I can tell, I think the Dephaser needs changing now as it slightly knocks/taps but still drives spot on, it has a rough idle though and I just can’t seem to figure it out. I think I’m just going to buy brand new ht leads and injectors when I get the belts changed. Hopefully that should resolve the issue along with a new decat pipe as that’s got the hole in that’s got a temp fix on
I didn't think it would have been the battery with it only being 6 months old.
They idle rough , that's normal I'm 1*2s
Sounds like you're getting there.
I'm getting my cambelt service done tomorrow at Birchdown, the full genuine kit with water pump, dephaser, cam seals and coolant is £265 on eBay from Renault , Swindon.
It’s probably me just being paranoid lol. Il still get new stuff and belts and get exhaust sorted properly and see how it is after that. I’ve never actually heard it running properly since I’ve had it as the original engine blew on the first drive. Keep trying to weld the exhaust but keeps blowing holes in it. So hopefully.nee decat should be goodI didn't think it would have been the battery with it only being 6 months old.
They idle rough , that's normal I'm 1*2s
Sounds like you're getting there.
I'm getting my cambelt service done tomorrow at Birchdown, the full genuine kit with water pump, dephaser, cam seals and coolant is £265 on eBay from Renault , Swindon.