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Those whove a dash fan switch...
- Thread starter u33db
- Start date
why would you want to this, just get a low temperature fan switch from bbpt and low temp thermostat if you wish to run cooler, but if its what you want. You can do it two ways. You could run wire to radiator fan switch or to the fan itself. For on fan put one to the earth and the other from a positve to your switch and back to fan. so it comes on and off with switch. Or you will find if you cross the connection that go to radiator fan switch (on radiator in front of alternator) the fan comes on, so you could just run a switch off this. Guage of wire should be fairly heavy, but in reality this type of switch should be done through a relay, so as to avoid heavy load on switch, but you would probably get away with it. If you tap into radiaor wiring, without disturbing original wiring, the fan would continue to work automatically, with switch being like an overide for putting it on.
Well, normally the fan should come on exactly at the mark ive made but very occassionally it goes higher (midway to the next mark) which makes me think its not 100%. As i said, i have a low temp fan switch and radiator so it must be ok but im still a little concerned about sitting in traffic hence the manual override switch i want!
When does everyone elses come on?
http://www.coded-solutions.com/car/other/Clocks.jpg
ive got neither the low temp fan switch or thermostat fitted , my temp never goes over 1/2 , the fan doesnt kick in until 3/4 but ive never seen it kick in yet lol ! Ive got a low temp fan switch here and thermostat but never bothered fitting them , dont think theres much point , as its not overheating or anything...And besides i cant be arsed tryna get the old temp switch off hehe seems a bit stuck on !!
Right all you need to do is cut the live fan wire, then join anothewr wire to it and connect all 3 of them up. So its the normal fan circuit but with another wire joined. Take this wire to the switch your using. The take a wire from the battery to the other side of the switch. Done. You can put a relay in the live wire too to stop it overloading. Should be ok tho.
Hope this helps
U33db, my valver used to go up to that mark occasionally, but after a top end rebuild and low temp thermostat, it now rarely even reaches half way. But since you have this thermostat it cant be that. I would take radiator out, and fluch it again. Also undo block drain plug (its at bottom of the back of the block on pulley end og engine, under and to drivers side of exhaust manifold). Take thermostat housing off and stick hose in it, so water flushes through block and out drain plug (especially if it was a garage that flushed you system, they would never be arsed even looking for block drain plug). Also undo 2 hoses that go to matrix, and put hose through them, surprising the crap that builds up. On top of all this I would maybe change watre pump since it aint to bad to do and is cheap.
Cheers! One thing, the engine was reconditioned back in febuary so presumably all fluids were removed when they lifted the block out. Also, i fitted a new radiator etc when i did the thermostat etc so is it worth doing this?
I noticed that the wires at the fan switch look a bit weak (rubber coating removed) so maybe theyre just a bit temrimental? Crusing the car stays about the same temp as everyone else....well confused!
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