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Welcome to the forum. Enjoy!

391. Zygalski - '05 182 20k, starting to melt top right I agree about the watchdog petition. I think if 100+ of us emailed them then Renault would definately be a feature on the show.

The black gold could have been me if it was heading towards the A264

Look forward to the almost mandatory leaky headlamp washer jet & the £90+ to supply & fit a replacement.

esure were who I chose after a lot of searching & comparisons. Going to them directly saved me a load of dosh.

5-10 bhp but probably the increased torque is what you'll notice.

How so? Have you been on a diet Pepsi?

Mine bounced around between 800 & 1200 rpm at idle for a few days then sorted itself. I also only use V-power :D

Oops. Posted by accident.

http://tinyurl.com/bhay76 Blimey :S

Mine took 3 working days to arrive.

According to what's on the lacquer can: "...Use 1200 grit wet & dry abrasive paper and plenty of water to achieve a matt surface. Removal of the glossy paint surface is necessary to produce the correct lacquered finish..." I think if you don't sand the finish back you may get that sort of...

Ok so does the 2.0l 16v decal go on before or after the lacquer layer - I'm really not sure? Ady reckons before the lacquer & I tend to agree. Anyone else got any ideas???

Briefly: * key plastic surface with 600 wet & dry * remove dust with tack cloth (or wash) * 3 or 4 coats of plastic primer (15 minutes + between each coat) * leave 24 hours then key again with 600 * remove dust as before * 4 or 5 coats of colour (15 minutes + between each coat) * leave 24 hours...

Should be fine. I used 800 and 1500 wet & dry. The plastic primer has taken perfectly well after keying with the 800. From start to finish, painting the engine cover is a 3 day job unless you want to risk ballsing it up.

Thanks - I got 1 of 'em.

I've just finished keying/priming my engine cover so I'll start stage 2 tomorrow. I've also taken pics so I can do a beginners guide.

Not yet as I'm at work. I'm off for 2 weeks now so I'll do it & post some before & after shots. Would like to see how yours turns out :)

My advice would be 1) Use a battery charger even if indicator is green 2) Take time to make sure you download the correct .rst & .cal files for your ECU from your chassis number (read the manual for explanation!) 3) First thing once you plug in is to read the original ECU & save to your laptop...

So what's a decent lightweight alloy for a black gold 182?

Maybe the smaller wheels making the car 1 inch lower also plays a role. After all, people go on about the 3mm lowering from the suspension pack making a difference & 1 inch = about 24mm

Doesn't the weight of the standard alloys contribute to the handling quality of the car? I can't imagine they'd go to the lengths of designing signature alloys on a performance hatch if the weight of 'em was just a pure disadvantage.

Because the whole process takes about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. If you're tinkering around with the ECU & lose power you could be in deep s**t. Remember to turn off power to the battery charger (£27 well spent) before you touch the leads because a spark could blow up the battery & you'll...

I can't look at the moment but aren't there just 4 allen key bolts holding the cover in place? If so can someone please tell me the key size ta.

Black gloss FTW! How hot does the cover get? D'ya reckon you can use regular black gloss?

Hi. I assume I just unscrew it, prime & then spray on heat-resistent gloss. Leave for a few hours, then stick on the new decals if I can find them? Anyone got any tips on this job? I've got a black gold 182. Thanks. :)

So if the RR shows 140 bhp atw (and from what people say that seems about right) then you can say 20% max loss atf which means a true engine bhp of 175. 26% transmission loss to generate the 189 bhp atf on a car that's been well looked after & has very low miles seems rather far fetched to me!

Williams was good in it's day, but I'm sorry....

Ah ok, ta! Is 140 bhp at the wheels & 163 lb/ft torque ok for an otherwise standard remapped 182?