Clio 182 Non cup suspension advice/refresh

[Mash.]

So currently i am running ktec coilovers (fitted by previous owner) I'm looking to get rid of them and was just wondering whats the best alternativesuspension set up/ or any advice you have for a non cup?

thanks in advance.

 

[Mash.]

and if anyone knows the size of the C spanner i could use with the ktec coil overs that will be very useful!

 

[KevF182]

I would suggest getting 172 cup shocks and cooksport springs. You should have change from £300 for that setup. But a refresh of all the joints/bushes/mounts will add nearly that much again, and is worthwhile if it all looks like its never been replaced before.

 

[Mash.]

I would suggest getting 172 cup shocks and cooksport springs. You should have change from £300 for that setup. But a refresh of all the joints/bushes/mounts will add nearly that much again, and is worthwhile if it all looks like its never been replaced before.

Perfect, yeah was wondering around about 172 shocks. I've had a look around at stuff that would be good for a refresh, but what would you recommend doing first?! cheers!

 

[KevF182]

Perfect, yeah was wondering around about 172 shocks. I've had a look around at stuff that would be good for a refresh, but what would you recommend doing first?! cheers!

I'd say the lower balljoints and track rod ends if your on a budget and are not sure about history. I guess you've seen the many "refresh" threads giving a list of the parts needed if you want everything new, but I have just replaced bits as and when they were worn, cos I'm always on a tight budget!

The originals got replaced on mine due to finding some play:

- balljoints at around 70k (rhs) and 80k miles (lhs)
- track rod ends at 85k (lhs) and 90k (rhs)
- Replaced inner joints at same time as rod ends because it made sense to do so, though they seemed ok actually.
- rear shocks at 70k miles.... and 85k.... and again at 95k (touch wood theres no leaks on current set at 104k!!!)
- Front shocks at 95k

No signs of obvious wear in anything else, still tight and noise-free at 104K, amazingly! I checked out the top mounts when doing the front shocks and there was no reason to replace them as the bearings worked without play, the locating hole for the shock rod in the rubber mount had no sign of wear and the rubber is not particulary "stiff" when new anyhow. But I can see why people replace the whole top mount assembly when doing front shocks as the bearings are normally well past their best and it saves having to do the job twice.

My wishobone bushes have not deteriorated enough to warrant replacing but as the balljoints I replaced are now getting on a bit again I might just get new complete wishbones in the next year or so to keep it feeling fit (get inner bushes and outer balljoints complete). I guess it could also benefit from the steering rack bushes being replaced as I did have to tighten them up about 10k miles ago to cure an occasional clunk turning the wheel when stationary. Lastly, people replace the ARB bushes but unless they are clearly falling apart then they should be ok. Having said that they are cheap and easy to replace, so I can see why they get done too, as a matter of course.

 

[Mash.]

I'd say the lower balljoints and track rod ends if your on a budget and are not sure about history. I guess you've seen the many "refresh" threads giving a list of the parts needed if you want everything new, but I have just replaced bits as and when they were worn, cos I'm always on a tight budget!

The originals got replaced on mine due to finding some play:

- balljoints at around 70k (rhs) and 80k miles (lhs)
- track rod ends at 85k (lhs) and 90k (rhs)
- Replaced inner joints at same time as rod ends because it made sense to do so, though they seemed ok actually.
- rear shocks at 70k miles.... and 85k.... and again at 95k (touch wood theres no leaks on current set at 104k!!!)
- Front shocks at 95k

No signs of obvious wear in anything else, still tight and noise-free at 104K, amazingly! I checked out the top mounts when doing the front shocks and there was no reason to replace them as the bearings worked without play, the locating hole for the shock rod in the rubber mount had no sign of wear and the rubber is not particulary "stiff" when new anyhow. But I can see why people replace the whole top mount assembly when doing front shocks as the bearings are normally well past their best and it saves having to do the job twice.

My wishobone bushes have not deteriorated enough to warrant replacing but as the balljoints I replaced are now getting on a bit again I might just get new complete wishbones in the next year or so to keep it feeling fit (get inner bushes and outer balljoints complete). I guess it could also benefit from the steering rack bushes being replaced as I did have to tighten them up about 10k miles ago to cure an occasional clunk turning the wheel when stationary. Lastly, people replace the ARB bushes but unless they are clearly falling apart then they should be ok. Having said that they are cheap and easy to replace, so I can see why they get done too, as a matter of course.

Cheers mate this is very helpful!
i think I'm gonna do new wishbones, track rod ends along with inner joints maybe, genuine 172 cup dampers with cooksport springs and pure motorsport top mounts! what do you think?