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Doing A CamBelt Myself (Any Advice).



  clio 182 cup
Hi guys, the time has come for my cam belt replacment on my 2005 182 cup with 33,000miles on it:(.
Thought i'd give it a go myself this Friday ahhh. I have all the locking tools, just wondering if anyone had any helpful advice about changing it.
Is it easier to take out the engine for room or leave engin in to save time???

Any advice will be helpful:)

Thanks Daryl
 
  Titanium 182
I think the normal way to do it is remove o/s wing and front bumper but the general consensus is that it's easier if you take the engine out.
 
There's a guide on here just recently been posted up on how to do it but you need to be a full member to view it, might be worth paying the £10 subscription fee so you can see it?
 
  clio 182 cup
There's a guide on here just recently been posted up on how to do it but you need to be a full member to view it, might be worth paying the £10 subscription fee so you can see it?

cool mite have to sign up n get that guide. Defo worth payin cheers m8.
 

Tav

  Clio 197
Any one provide prices for the Renault locking tools? I'm going to do mine myself, sack paying near £700 or driving 800miles round trip for the pleasure. The guide that's been posted up really helps.
 
  clio 182 cup
Any one provide prices for the Renault locking tools? I'm going to do mine myself, sack paying near £700 or driving 800miles round trip for the pleasure. The guide that's been posted up really helps.

I paid around £50 for mine, off MAC tools.

Same here aint payin no1 that amount of money to change a belt.
 
  ITB'd MK1
I paid around £50 for mine, off MAC tools.

Same here aint payin no1 that amount of money to change a belt.

anything but genuine renault locking tools is a waste of time money and metal.

Only renault sell the pulley locking tools

All in it's around £140 (you dont need the renault crank pin at £36, a lazer one will do at £10)

If you dont use genuine tools, the timing WILL be out
 
  ITB'd MK1
totally serious. All the non genuine cam alignment bars bend, and you shouldn't tighten against those anyway. As soon as you torque the pulleys they move unless you have the pulley locking tool
 
  Lionel Richie
for once i actually agree with danny (which is rare ;))

100% use the renault tools only, if you don't you may aswell put 6 bullets in the gun and then go play russian roulette
 
  Lionel Richie
infact crank pin is 0000105400
then i think the cam pulley tool is 7711381801 (plus you need the extra gear cog thing, don't have the number to hand)
then the cam tool (box end) i don't have the number to hand either

this lot
DSC_0251.jpg
 

Tav

  Clio 197
anything but genuine renault locking tools is a waste of time money and metal.

Only renault sell the pulley locking tools

All in it's around £140 (you dont need the renault crank pin at £36, a lazer one will do at £10)

If you dont use genuine tools, the timing WILL be out

£140 sounds fine. Going to the complete lot inc. dephaser as well for piece of mind. Bit of help from some good mechanics and it'll be fine...I hope.
 
  ITB'd MK1
tool part numbers are in the renault 172 pdf thats all over this site too

I've bought all new ones in the last month, they've changed a load of the MOT numbers, took bloody ages trawling through all the listings on the computer and cross referencing
 
  BMW M5 & E36
OOps meant cam not crank, it was late. Cheers Fred.

Do you have the upto date numbers handy at all then Danny?
 
  BMW M135i
Whats the actual idea behind slacking the cam pulleys off? Still haven't worked that one out yet and the renault manual gives a method where you don't slacken the pulleys off too?? Can only think its to normalise the tension between the belt in between pulleys but can't see how thats a problem unless timing a lump from scratch.
 
I hate to shamelessly plug my business.............but I can get the Renault tools, and any Renault parts you need. Prices are considerably less than Renault retail. I can also do the Gates Powergrip cambelt kits (Gates make the Renault ones).

Just send me a PM if interested.

Pete
Auto-Nation
 
  Lionel Richie
quote us happy you vulture! ;);)

bmh - its what r-sport, oreca, moteur huger, etc etc do, my man who was the r-sport man (looked after all uk r-sport engines) did the same

and you're right, it normalises the tension, if you don't do it you can knock the timing out
 
  BMW M135i
Ah I see, have always done it just wondered why really didn't really see the point but just followed the manual.
 
  ITB'd MK1
it sets the cam position in relation to the piston travel, rather than setting the pulley position. Removes margin for error with differences in block and head height/thickness. It's just basically more accurate
 
For reference...

TDC/Crank Pin - 0000105400 - £8.98
Extra Longer Cog + Spacers + Nut - 0000150901 - £16.56
Camshaft Locking Tool - 0000149600 - £40.50
Pulley Locking Tool - 7711381801 - £40.50

IMG_5329.jpg


IMG_5331.jpg
 
  alien green rs133
i find the hardest bit is putting the aux belt back on, what a tw@t the tensioner is, i made my own tool for this. but not willing to release design :D
 
  Vee 6
Intresting thread...I've got 2 to do.

Maybe we should start a tool club ?

You'd save money by doing it yourself, But not the sort of tools you'd use every day.
 
Yup defo the right one, same as the one I lent off fred a while back...

Picked them up today, used it on my engine earlier, worked spot on :)
 


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