Fault Lights

[Karlos172]

Ok, so went to get in car (172 Cup '53 plate) afterwork and the electrical fault symbol has illuminated appeared on the dash, start driving and its really slow, even when upto temp revs to only 2.5-3k, accelerating upto 55-60 mph takes what seems like half an hour! is there something wrong with sensor? or accelerator peddle potentiometer? Next time go to get in car the small engine symbol has also illuminated the one in the bottom right corner of the dash so yet another fault!. its on 108k now so done a few miles

Fault codes I got when plugged in were: 301, 95 twice, 285, and 309.

Any ideas whats wrong with it and ideas on price to fix please? its a chore to drive at the moment :dapprove:

 

[Oggy997]

This is happening a lot recently

Ive replaced my map sensor, looked at the pedal / wiring - now replacing the throttle body.

 

[MicKPM]

Those codes are from what, an old Snap-On "brick"? They mean nothing to me.

Mick

 

[Martin.]

301 - Brake pedal sensor circuit
309 - Cruise control / speed limiter - steering wheel controls
309 - Cruise control / speed limiter - brake pedal switches
(ABS engine management)

I had this. New brake pedal sensor seemed to do the trick, so far.

 

[Karlos172]

Those codes are from what, an old Snap-On "brick"? They mean nothing to me.

Mick

They are from a Modus my mate plugged in

 

[Karlos172]

Any ideas if it is the sensor on the accelerator causing this?

 

[MicKPM]

It's hard to say I'm afraid mate without seeing it. Plug it in again and see what the pedal tracks (Track 1 and Track 2) are doing when you press the pedal. If its a numerical value then it won't be of much use but if the equipment is capable of graphing then you will see any errors or faults in the signal.

If the signal is the fault then a pedal will most likely fix the issue but it could also be a low voltage, wiring fault, the TB itself or something else.

Mick

 

[Karlos172]

Thanks Mick, got a guy to plug it in with a newer diagnostic machine, code now is P0120 so believe this is the pedal position sensor/potentiometre. He has managed to cancel the lights for now, so take it ill need to order a new pedal from Renault?

 

[MicKPM]

Its a 172 Cup so be carefull... for some reason the genuine 172 Cup's suffer with throttle related age gremlins alot more than the FF variants. Was the live data actually checked and the values of Pedal Track '1 and Track '2 validated? There should be roughly no more than 8% difference between the values other wise the ECM flags it as a "Potentiometer fault". In some cases it is the potentiometer itself especially at this time of the year as they're suceptable to moisture ingress (Your carpets/floor mats get wet then the heater gets whacked up to full and the moisture rises). If there is a huge difference between the readings i'd say the likely hood of a pedal fault is good but it could also be a wiring or interference fault and as the symptoms and readings would be the same it all needs checking properly to save aggrivation more than money.

If you want to take a £65 gamble then buy a *new* pedal (Don't fek about with 2nd hand IMHO) but if it doesn't fix it, or if it comes back again in a few days/weeks/months you will know the fault is a little more sinister.

Mick

 

[Karlos172]

Thanks Mick, very helpful. Car seems better for now, will keep an eye on it, if any lights come back on Ill watch him plug it in this time and check the data against what you said.