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Hesitating after changing gear help?
- Thread starter ADS_V6
- Start date
All the way through the rev range as well?
These cars are known to be a bit hesitant when cold if its on the standard map (Usually in the morning after being left for the night) so was just ruling that out since you said its all the time
Might be one of those things that a visit to one of the specialist on here if one is close enough to you might be better since you have already changed a lot of parts and its still no better. Could be the lambda, injector, coil pack etc or none of them
These cars are known to be a bit hesitant when cold if its on the standard map (Usually in the morning after being left for the night) so was just ruling that out since you said its all the time
Might be one of those things that a visit to one of the specialist on here if one is close enough to you might be better since you have already changed a lot of parts and its still no better. Could be the lambda, injector, coil pack etc or none of them
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Unbolt the coil back and see if it's cracked or it's feet are rusty. Eventually this causes a misfire and poor running from 5k onwards.
Been serviced? Apart from what you've listed. Clutch slipping slightly. Does it pick up again?
What rpm are you changing gear at? There is a fueling issue with these that the RS tuner correct's and I've noticed the car feeling like it bogs if you shift early and it drops significantly below 5k. Noticed it most if I change early in 1st due to wheel spin or wheel hop thanks to the poor surfaces in my area. Luckily mine is mainly a track use car so I rarely do standing starts and it pretty much lives above 5k if I can.
I do wonder if renaults high rev limit in 1st, 2nd and 3rd of 7,250rpm has something to do with this. Owing to the bigger rpm drop in the lower gears.
Chip has mentioned that the fuelling isn't for best power below 4.8-5k on the standard map. Hence the 5k kick.
Been serviced? Apart from what you've listed. Clutch slipping slightly. Does it pick up again?
What rpm are you changing gear at? There is a fueling issue with these that the RS tuner correct's and I've noticed the car feeling like it bogs if you shift early and it drops significantly below 5k. Noticed it most if I change early in 1st due to wheel spin or wheel hop thanks to the poor surfaces in my area. Luckily mine is mainly a track use car so I rarely do standing starts and it pretty much lives above 5k if I can.
I do wonder if renaults high rev limit in 1st, 2nd and 3rd of 7,250rpm has something to do with this. Owing to the bigger rpm drop in the lower gears.
Chip has mentioned that the fuelling isn't for best power below 4.8-5k on the standard map. Hence the 5k kick.
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Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
For best power under heavy acceleration when it's really needed.
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
If the lower rev limit isn't cutting in then it's getting up to temperature. It takes a little while for it all to get warm enough. Does the RS tuner take this out?
These do need to be properly warm to give their best. Do not like running cold at all. Remind me of my carb fed XR2 some days. Although that was in a pants state of tune in terms of cams etc by comparison!
These do need to be properly warm to give their best. Do not like running cold at all. Remind me of my carb fed XR2 some days. Although that was in a pants state of tune in terms of cams etc by comparison!
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Mine (172 cup) goes up to half pretty quickly and stays there. Still takes a little while for lower rev limit to go even after it reaches half. 182 before was exactly the same.
I'd get the stat changed.
I'd get the stat changed.
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Sadly you do. That's why I'm glad mine is mainly a track car. I only take it out late at night and to places the chavs don't go. I actually get more tailgating from German machinery with middle aged men in to be honest. My timing avoids them too. There is no joy in wanking out the gearbox, driveshafts and engine mounts making a point to numpties and anything properly quick will make short work of a sport anyway. Turbos and large capacity lumps have an advantage even tissue box by road car standards weight can't overcome.
Hope it sorts it. These Renault lumps have a really nice crisp response and make a pretty good noise when they are all warm and clear after a few good laps.
Hope it sorts it. These Renault lumps have a really nice crisp response and make a pretty good noise when they are all warm and clear after a few good laps.
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
It's hilarious how far from a traffic light dual skilled driving is but hey it gives the police something to do and brings a bit of joy into otherwise dull lives. Just not my thing 
Airfield track day booked next week that has a twisty section and then two very long straights. I expect to get Mullered on the straights and out the hairpin seperating the two straights being standard, two up, on road tyres and having no lsd and then be a wasp at a picnic through the twisty bit to most non kit car things. It's the Clio sport way. A right pain for the overtaking flag guys! Unless it rains and then the ball falls more in my court with my softer suspension and deep rain clearing tread
Airfield track day booked next week that has a twisty section and then two very long straights. I expect to get Mullered on the straights and out the hairpin seperating the two straights being standard, two up, on road tyres and having no lsd and then be a wasp at a picnic through the twisty bit to most non kit car things. It's the Clio sport way. A right pain for the overtaking flag guys! Unless it rains and then the ball falls more in my court with my softer suspension and deep rain clearing tread
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Desperately need to loosen that up then! They get faster with age and the correct abuse!
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Once you get them sorted they are pretty reliable. I haven't seen a Smokey one on track or off and running gear only dies with abuse. A smooth gear change loses a fraction of a second but makes a huge difference to the longetivity of it all. It's only really the springs that aren't a fair price when genuine so I can't grumble at the few hundred I spent on mine. Previous owner spent close to two grand and then gave up. His loss my gain. I'm not a lucky person so I'm pretty chuffed it's all worked out the way it did. I fixed engine mount's, dodgy quickshift and a misfire for just 100quid. Good old EBay and just sorted Clio s being broken! I also fitted rear shocks as mine weren't cup ones and a front spring was also non cup so that little lot was about 200 quid for genuine bits. A full set of CS3 tyres in 195/45/16 and the tracking cost me more than fixing the few niggles it had. Cheap motoring compared to many cars. My dad's puma's cambelt was more than the Clio's!
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Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Look for markcup's video's on YouTube. He tracked and ran a cup successfully for a good 100,000miles with very few mods.
thanks man just watched those good viewing,with my car only on 32k should i change gearbox oil as it was previously owned by 3 lfemale owners and i dont expect its ever been done,also changed oil in april does it need changing again with cam belt change or not thanks again al
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
If your doing the dephaser it seems to be good practice to flush and change as the little bits have to go somewhere. If not it's up to you wether you think it has been used in a way to warrant it. The Clios use good quality oil so for normal road use the normal intervals are fine. Gearbox is for life as far as I knew so optional but it is fairly easy to change with a flexible funnel so it's up to you. I just added 100ml to mine to bring it up to the correct level as it has the usual selector shaft minor weep and have left it alone. If you do hard track work or lots of short journeys then service the engine more often. Only use Renault oil for the gearbox. There are others but these French gearboxes can be funny about oil.
thanks will change gearbox oil pointless wasting money on another oil change ive looked into this hesitation changing gear thing on forums people who had similar issue changed either the map sensor or the pre cat lambda sensor to success ,can my garage easily test these sensors the car otherwise is rapid just annoying when theres a little niggle unless the car is stuck in open loop mode it takes forever for engine fan to kick in
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Fans don't kick in easily on these anyway. The cooling system is very capable. Although your car is low mileage it's still a decade or so old so these things can go wrong. Change one thing at a time and then drive it again. I can't really advise on what your garage can do. It all depends on what gear they have.
I'd start a seperate thread for the more versed in checking the lambda and map sensors on this car to advise.
I'd start a seperate thread for the more versed in checking the lambda and map sensors on this car to advise.
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Mount the top ones (engine and gearbox) all the way forward and go easy while shifting and the problems go away.
The top gearbox mount needs to be done up tighter than Renault suggest as it can move. Centre nut is fine but the smaller two are just not tight enough once a few years corrosion have set in on the threads at the standard setting. You don't have to go nuts just make sure they are tight.
Mine doesn't clunk whatever but I shift smoothly as you can hear the mounts thumping against the stops
The top gearbox mount needs to be done up tighter than Renault suggest as it can move. Centre nut is fine but the smaller two are just not tight enough once a few years corrosion have set in on the threads at the standard setting. You don't have to go nuts just make sure they are tight.
Mine doesn't clunk whatever but I shift smoothly as you can hear the mounts thumping against the stops
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Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
I think you need to visit a specialist. You could be chasing this for a while. It's hard to suggest things over the internet.
Fault finding is the crappy bit of car maintenance
Fault finding is the crappy bit of car maintenance
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
That will help hopefully. No idea. I only fill it up for track days and a full tank usually lasts the day. It pulls strong and clean. That's all I care about
It does do that Sport thing of you can watch the needle going down when it's at full chat but trickling along it doesn't seem to move so I assume it's doing mid to High 30's on a rural gentle run as it should.
It does do that Sport thing of you can watch the needle going down when it's at full chat but trickling along it doesn't seem to move so I assume it's doing mid to High 30's on a rural gentle run as it should.
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Bog standard bar a quickshift and some sort of nasty foam filter. Neither of which I fitted. The filter will be going soon and I have an early gear change mechanism so the quickshift is staying until I figure it all out. I don't make fast changes at track days so it's not needed. Against the clock yes but non competitive events no. I'm running road tyres so the limits of grip are reached sooner so I can practice car control and worry less about trying to wind up the money over talent brigade. I also run two up as it's more of a laugh with a passenger. It still gets round more than quick enough as it is.
Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
I agree. It's just a panel filter so no messing around with trying to source parts. Has done the usual thing of covering the throttle body with oil. Easy enough to clean.
It is apparently a quick one. According to the Renault garage that did most of the work on it.
It is apparently a quick one. According to the Renault garage that did most of the work on it.
good to hear mine was checked over by my fathers friend in renault cardiff they only picked up on rear brake caliper and tyres they said rest of car excellent so pleses with that,ive just taken the map sensor off and cleaned it and also foud my brake switch loose on pedal lol.typical french things though its like driving the 205 gti again bang crash,wallop
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