Weird limp mode problem

[DomP182]

I think I put this in the wrong section before but basically my 182 has just gone into limp mode with some odd symptoms.

With the ignition on it looks like the first photo them once started the second photo. It won't rev above 3k is a little hesitant to start and the rad fan comes on permanently. I've got an abs ring that needs replacing if that could be connected to it but the shaft is stuck in the hub!

Any help much appreciated

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[bloke]

that's electrical fault light. first guess with you mentioning the cooling fan coming on is problem in the loom.

 

[RubberDuck]

As with the shaft stuck in the hub, soak it in a penetrating oil and hit the end of it with a copper mallet, a copper one so I doesn't destroy the threads.

 

[DomP182]

Ah that doesnt sound good, i unplugged the white connector in the fuse box and the one going to the TB but both were clean. I wonder if its connected to having the belts done a few months back. What would you suggest I do now as I can't get it anywhere with the lack of power.

Tried smacking it with a mallet with a piece of hardwood on the end to protect the thread but it's having none of it.

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[DomP182]

Would buying a fault code reader be a good idea?

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[bloke]

easiest way would be get it on clip or at least something half decent. don't waste your time with the botchers favorite torque.

eml on?

 

[DomP182]

Yeah it is on

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[bloke]

i reckon you're going to have faults for at least one lambda, obviously the traction/abs, air con pressure sensor and throttle circuit with possibly all of the bar the throttle coming up as short circuits :wink:

 

[DomP182]

Oh where to start? I've ordered a code reader

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[DomP182]

Could it be the CTS has failed causing the fan to stay on?

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[bloke]

if it didn't have the other issues i'd say yes.

 

[STEVE.M]

Oh where to start? I've ordered a code reader

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Find your way to Long Eaton.

 

[DomP182]

If only I were close

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[DomP182]

One thing I haven't mentioned is that the cruise control is showing SET.....

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[bloke]

even when it's switched off?

 

[DomP182]

When the cc is switched off? I can't make it do anything from the steering wheel controls

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[bloke]

this is sounding more and more interesting :wink: shame you're so far away, would be interesting to look at it.

 

[DomP182]

I've got a lovely shepherds hit you can stay in

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[Peperami]

My moneys on lambda sensor.

 

[DomP182]

Hope it's that simple but what's the traction control light and cc thing all about, connected to the abs ring?

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[bloke]

I've got a lovely shepherds hit you can stay in

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you mean a shed on wheels :wink:

 

[DomP182]

you mean a shed on wheels :wink:

Cheeky!

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[bloke]

Cheeky!

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no, the shepherds hut not the clio

 

[DomP182]

Haha well that's about all my car is currently, that's what happens when you treat it to all new shocks and springs, throws it back in your face.

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[DomP182]

Haha well that's about all my car is currently, that's what happens when you treat it to all new shocks and springs, throws it back in your face.

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So I tried using this code reader, it said I have 1 recorded fault but just said N/A when I tried to retrieve the code. Reading the instructions I'm dubious that it is the right reader even though the eBay description said it was.

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[STEVE.M]

So I tried using this code reader, it said I have 1 recorded fault but just said N/A when I tried to retrieve the code. Reading the instructions I'm dubious that it is the right reader even though the eBay description said it was.

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I`ve got one of those & have never had a N/A reading come up, but then I have not had an ABS fault.
Disconnect the throttle pedal to check you get P120 displayed to confirm its working correctly.

As you have had the shocks off to change the springs, check for continuity through the front ABS senders, as the wiring may have got broken.

 

[DomP182]

I`ve got one of those & have never had a N/A reading come up, but then I have not had an ABS fault.
Disconnect the throttle pedal to check you get P120 displayed to confirm its working correctly.

As you have had the shocks off to change the springs, check for continuity through the front ABS senders, as the wiring may have got broken.

Would help if that one pin wasn't pushed in! I've been reading that it may be a Renault specific code.
Thanks for the help but I had the limp mode before I had fitted the shocks but I does seem abs related. However it really doesn't like starting which makes me wonder from go ogling it if it's CTS or MAF sensor?

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[STEVE.M]

Would help if that one pin wasn't pushed in! I've been reading that it may be a Renault specific code.
Thanks for the help but I had the limp mode before I had fitted the shocks but I does seem abs related. However it really doesn't like starting which makes me wonder from go ogling it if it's CTS or MAF sensor?

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I`ll check mine in about an hour to confirm that pin is displaced.
To be honest, make the 2 hour trip at 56 mph in the left hand lane with the trucks to Diamond, as you have already spent that time to no effect.
Mick uses clip & scope as part of his tool box, not something he charges for using, and will have the problem pinpointed in no time.

 

[DomP182]

That's what I'm thinking, tried unplugging the throttle plug but got no extra codes.

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[STEVE.M]

That's what I'm thinking, tried unplugging the throttle plug but got no extra codes.

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Yes, that plug is not assembled correctly.
I see it is held together with screws, so correcting it is a possible if the pin won`t pull through.

That or send the seller a pic & hope they agree to send you another FOC.

 

[DomP182]

A few things I've noticed today, the fan is no longer permanently on and the cc no longer displays set on the dash.
I've reset the brake pedal switch which changed nothing.
It still struggles to start first time but runs a bit rougher than usual smelling very rich with a bit of a leak around the cat area

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[DomP182]

Well in desperation I took it to a local auto electrics specialist, he had a brief look while I was there but is going to have a more involved look today. He was a bit puzzled by it but thinks it's a loom issue, quite a few faults came up one being throttle potentiometer, if it turns out to be this he said both the throttle body and pedal need replacing as they are normally coded to each other is this the case?

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[bloke]

not coded and he obviously isn't that good a specialist :tonguewink:

 

[DomP182]

Any tips I can give him? [emoji38]

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[bloke]

try a different career :tongueclosed:

 

[DomP182]

No seriously he's quite a respected auto electrics guy

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[bloke]

if he genuinely is then it should be pretty easy for him to work out what the problem is.

 

[DomP182]

Appears to be a faulty ecu, does that seem likely? Can I not just replace it with a 2nd hand one?

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[bloke]

I had one that was doing similar, been to three or four people before it came to me. Had codes for lambda, a.c. throttle circuit and couple of others. Checked loom and no shorts showing up, didn't scope anything though.

Throttle circuit was to dock though but not by much. Eventually decided on ecu, grabbed a know good way, cleared immob code from it, chucked it on the car and still the same!!

Found couple of issues with the loom purely by chance so rather than chasing God knows how many issues with the loom was cheaper and quicker to throw a known good loom on. Chucked it on and all the codes went but brought up a different one for throttle circuit, turns out apart from the loom issues it had an iffy throttle body on as well!!!

So yes it could be ecu but I'm still leaning towards wiring issue. You can get a 182 ecu and get it cleared and try that but don't be surprised if that doesn't sort it.

Speak to whoever is doing it and get him to agree if he thinks it's the ecu and if it doesn't cure it you're not liable for any costs.

 

[DomP182]

The ecu is going to be tested, if no fault with it there will be no charge. I'm pretty much at the mercy of them other than taking a day off work to limp it somewhere which I can't easily do at the moment

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