wheel bearings

[grey_clio]

A mate of mine has exactly the same model as me, a 1.4 rt 1995 and he's said that he has noticed a humming/ droning noise occasionaly when around 40 mph. He said its not all the time though. I told him it could be the bearings what do you think?? If it is what is the best way to find out which ones are failing?

Thanks

 

[MrMark]

its likely to be the bearings. To find out you need to spin the wheels by hand. You will know which is faulty then.

 

[grey_clio]

Apart from the droning noise when driving, when we spin the wheels once jacked up what symptoms are we looking for to know 100% its that bearing? is it likly to be front or rear or is it best to check all 4 wheels one by one?

cheers

 

[grey_clio]

help guys?

thanks

 

[bmh.01]

You should be able to hear a noise and there may be some play in the wheel.

 

[grey_clio]

is it just hold wheel at 9 & 3 and any play would indicate a failing bearing??

Thanks

 

[grey_clio]

anyone, Im a real noob at this stuff

 

[MrMark]

do a search mate, its been covered many times.

 

[Tom Wilde]

Grab the wheel top and bottom and try to move it. If there is play in the wheel then the bearing is nackered. Also, turn it by hand and listen for a grating sound, you'll know then...

 

[grey_clio]

Grab the wheel top and bottom and try to move it. If there is play in the wheel then the bearing is nackered. Also, turn it by hand and listen for a grating sound, you'll know then...

cheers bud, is it best to change both sides at the same time or is it normal to just change the fked side??

 

[edde]

Grab the wheel top and bottom and try to move it. If there is play in the wheel then the bearing is nackered. Also, turn it by hand and listen for a grating sound, you'll know then...

cheers bud, is it best to change both sides at the same time or is it normal to just change the fked side??

I'd change both but one going doesn't mean the other side will go.

 

[Tom Wilde]

I just changed the nackered one on mine. Best practice to change both, but if it's the front one I would take it to a garage unless you know what you're doing. It's a right ball ache!

 

[grey_clio]

I just changed the nackered one on mine. Best practice to change both, but if it's the front one I would take it to a garage unless you know what you're doing. It's a right ball ache!

Why is the front harder?

 

[Tom Wilde]

Because you have to unmount all the suspension, driveshaft and steering mechanism. It's not a particularly hard job if everything goes to plan, but it never does. It's just fiddly that's all.

 

[grey_clio]

Because you have to unmount all the suspension, driveshaft and steering mechanism. It's not a particularly hard job if everything goes to plan, but it never does. It's just fiddly that's all.

oh right cool, dont think ill be doing the front myself if it needs doing, I can do the rears as i can press the bearings at work

 

[Tom Wilde]

Yeah the rear ones are easy, never done one though. Felt like torching the car a few times when I was doing the front one

 

[Mark One]

Because you have to unmount all the suspension, driveshaft and steering mechanism. It's not a particularly hard job if everything goes to plan, but it never does. It's just fiddly that's all.

Im sorry, but suspension work is not really fiddly. If you have a breaker bar and a socket set you can't really go far wrong. Clean all the threads up nicely before you start unbolting and it's relatively easy to remove a front hub. The only hard bit is removal and refitting of the bearing itself. TBH it's not something you can do at home, it's an interferance fit (the bearing is bigger than the hole it's in). You need to take your hubs to a garage and have them press a new one in.
The play in the wheel will be very small. When I have had bearings go, I just noted that the noise stopped when i turned quite hard one way (weight off the wheel). Then I eventually (with a mate in the boot) worked out it was definitely the front one. The job was easy.

 

[Mark One]

Also, be warned, You need a massive socket (32mm iirc) and a LONG breaker bar to get your hub nuts off and it's pretty important to use a big torque wrench doing them back up.
I have put a little section in my 182 manifold conversion guide about refitting ball joints which is a pain if you don't know how.

 

[grey_clio]

Also, be warned, You need a massive socket (32mm iirc) and a LONG breaker bar to get your hub nuts off and it's pretty important to use a big torque wrench doing them back up.
I have put a little section in my 182 manifold conversion guide about refitting ball joints which is a pain if you don't know how.

I work in an engineering factory, I can get hold of any socket whatsoever or torque wrench

 

[grey_clio]

Right jacked up each side one by one, rears seem fine no play or noise, front had a fair bit of play in both sides.

Change front then I reckon.

What would we be looking at as a guide for a garage to do the front both sides if we supplied the parts?

cheers guys

 

[Tom Wilde]

Well the bearing for me was £35 from Unipart. I reckon they would charge about £60 per side to fit them...

 

[grey_clio]

Yeah just had 3 quotes from garages

1. £270 dont think so

2. £140

3. £100

ALL if we supply parts ( Buying from GSF )

 

[grey_clio]

2nd and 3rd sound reasonable??

 

[grey_clio]

2nd and 3rd sound reasonable??

 

[edde]

Not a bad price just make sure you use good bearings.

 

[VibeFliClioGrande]

just to butt in...how much would i be aiming to pay for the front wheel bearing change job?.....ma bad jus realised it was already said