Recent content by Brigsy

Defo needs taking up a size with the pitting.

Looks like the corrosion on the top of cyl 1 is pretty bad. Prob be rebore and up a size in pistons or liners in the block to return to stock size.

Ecu powers up so thats good. If the fan is starting up with ign on, it might be wired incorrectly or differentlyto last time, poss wrong output selected in ecu, it sounds like its starting fan instead of priming the pump. You will need adaptronic software, wari or eugene...

Immob light irrelevant now as standalone ecu has control over the engine. Forget all the common fixes for original ecu. Does the ecu have blue lights flashing when powered up and have you been into the ecu via software to check its got a map on it? You will need the laptop on it to see if its...

Yep knuckle breakers the flexi head when loose. I need a set of angled ones, and reversible on the lever like a ratchet. I need to invest in a new set/angled set myself. I did borrow a set of snapon double jointed flex head years ago to do a tricky set of glow plugs and they were mint. Not sure...

The halfords advanced flexi head ratchet spanners are decent for the money but the flexi head pivot wears out fast with regular use, making them a bit floppy c**k like which gets annoying fast. On plus side halfords replace them no quibbles. Id prob go bluepoint if used all the time.

Updates Blue dci has been laid up since beginning of March due to the leaking heater matrix. I was seriously lacking motivation to do this again but it aint going to fix itself :sneaky: Had a spare hour on Friday so cracked on stripping it. On sat done a bit more in the pm. Stripped heater...

I got a new one from renault a few years back, might still be available.

As @Flob said above make sure no agressive bends in the gear cables. I had a similar issue on my cable shifter setup, the cables were too long and the bend was too tight. Re routed them to smooth the issue out and all seems ok. Kangoo dci or clio2 dci pedal box with hydraulic clutch will work...

The p codes can lead you down the garden path with these, need clip to diagnose correct df codes really. Id be datalogging a few parameters on startup. Flashing eml is typically faulty injector on clios of this era. With the fuel trims being out, id be looking at them.

Decent enough power for stock airbox etc, id be happy enough with that.

I use rbf600 in my r26 and its good stuff, get 3 or so trackdays without a bleed. Always full of water according to the fluid tested. Like you say, half the price of srf so prob worth spending more to extend intervals on this.

Ive actually got one in the garage that i used for a pikey high/low boost operated on the rear window wipe switch on my old white gtt. Might get it sold with the prices 😄 I think ive just been unlucky with the mac valves. The first one the centre unscrewed and fell out. The current one was off...

Yeah could be. Ill mount the next one infront so it gets airflow from behind the rad.

Updates. Fixed rad fan the other day. The +12v wire had snapped off at the ring terminal for some reason. Repaired in 5 mins with new ring terminal and dual wall heatshrink. The dual wall heatshrink should add some stability/strength at the joint as it glues when shrinking. Also done some...