Recent content by Mertin

Link doesnt seem to have worked but was posted on 12th November if you want to look back. I also have a few screenshots from the manual that others had posted on here with the method for doing the No.1 main that I can send if you haven't came across them on here while searching

Ah, that makes sense now. I didnt even twig at the time. I haven't got a thread as such but just picked up all the info from various posts on here. Feel free to drop me a DM with any queries, just literally done the no.1 main last week. I had noticed a post on AW Motorworks facebook page...

Apologies, I looked it up after posting & 5980 isn't anerobic (non setting) so no use for cam cover & can't edit my post

Great build thread and good to see another Phase 1. I'm going through some engine upgrades just now and similar to yourself, pulled the engine out the car so I could work on it properly and have everything cleaned up. ITB's and ARP rod bolts turned into cams also which meant timing belt kit and...

I may be wrong but I would just use the 5980 for the cam cover also

Looks like its the tab for supporting / locating the plastic tray. Frogjam's website mentions it Fitting this pump does require modification to the sump pan - some areas need grinding away in order to achieve sufficient clearance for the oil pickup. Similarly you will need to fabricate and fit...

I used Loctite SI 5980, comes in a compressed tube like many of the others. Definately worth doing while 8n that deep, only problem is you will also have to disturb rear crank seal which can be a bugger to get it to seal properly

Interesting about the oil pump as iv just had the engine on stand and sump off to do rod bolts, no.1 bearing cap reseal etc

Whilst engines out the car Im going to address any common leaks and also I couldnt exactly pin point my small leak. Iv already done no.1 bearing cap and will install new main crank seal. Next Iv got the gasket for front crank seal housing and wondered if theres any pointers for the front crank...

I thought it was advised against skimming flywheels or is that the standard ones people refer to? Clutch is fine so planning to reuse, also was running fine with no issues which makes me hesitant to change and throw it back together 😂

Pulled the engine out the car to do timing belt and fix a few leaks. Below is the condition of the TTV flywheel, been on the car 4 - 5 years but probably seen no more than a dozen sprints / hills. Was running a CG motorsport clutch. Is the below ok to reuse or does it warrant replacing?

Perfect, I'll have a dig around. Many thanks

Bit of a thread revival here as Im after the same for both phase 1 & phase 2

Thanks but won't be needed for what Im doing, im fitting throttle bodies to my ph1

Thanks, I'll have a look through your thread. Sure itl be a great help. Yeah I have the ph2 loom so as long as the pins in the white plug are the same I should be ok or maybe move a few pins. Other option is start from scratch and tie in the ecu into my own loom but rather try and use the one...