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As Sash said, it's usually age related issues, somewhere on the TCM PCB which cases this. The general rule is check/change the battery first and then load test the EDC wiring loom for issues. If they're both good, chances are it's the TCM at fault.
Clutch packs are starting to need doing also...
Chances are it'll be the common inconsistency between pedal track 1 and 2 issue. You can try cleaning up the big white connector in the engine bay fuse box, as this often causes issues but if not, you'll need to do some load testing on the entire circuit and find your issue this way.
Without having much to scale from, i'm taking a complete guess here. It looks like the bolt is either one of the lower inlet plenum to cylinder head fixings fixings (Timing case side) OR more likely, it's the fixing which holds the alternator upper restraint bracket to the cylinder head and goes...
It depends on how badly chewed up it is but normally, you need something like an Irwin removal socket set:
https://www.bes.co.uk/irwin-bolt-grip-fastener-remover-16923/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6pOTBhCTARIsAHF23fIDWqh2zgONjX81QotJ5Ti0yEjelJb5eQvdxyHSA-zCkOHzwgEy0a0aAm-OEALw_wcB
If that doesn't get a good...
Easiest and most inexpensive thing to do would be to pull the sump and inspect the big ends. If they’re not damaged check the mains and if they’re also good, replace/repair the sump, new oil and filter… see how it goes. The only thing you’ll waste is your time.
If the bearings/crank is scored...
JCX boxes use a tapered roller bearing, to deal with the torque better. There's also some minor differences in seals between the two but the main difference is bearing types.
I had it on a 182 Trophy recently and it turned out to be the relay battery supply, where some kind soul had historically pierced the wire to probe it. They're usually easy fixes on cars of this age, once you understand the circuits and how they function. The later stuff is all CAN/LIN and needs...
Always game with issues like these. The only problem I have is time… We’re booking for May at the minute, with a few random spaces in late April.
Drop me an email sometime if you fancy getting her in: www.diamondmotors.co.uk
The EML light being on is a good thing! It shows the issue isn’t the usual bag of worms.
The most likely issue here is the injection latching relay function. You’ll either have 0-3v on the output or the control side of the circuit, which powers the Injectors common +12v and IGN Coil +12v. In...
There's loads of people around with access to clone CLIP but it's not a magical silver bullet.
What you need to do is understand the actual cause for the solid red ADAC. Firstly, when you turn the key to IGN ON, do all the warning lights come on and then go out? Pay particular attention to the...