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I be honest, I do use fancy belts on the buggy, mainly the ones with a second fibre (kevlar) layer, and cross cuts so they can clear out some dust/debris give the usage (and actually herringbone belts on the most vital bits), but for anything else, buy an OE one.
This, heavy moly's are fine, I'm talking 20-40% moly stuff, because there's barely any oil to hold dirt and the moly does the work anyway. Same for just rubbing some graphite or moly powder on.
Normal greases? Nah.
You can't compare manufacturers friction levels, the testing, pressure temperature, sizes, speed, etc, all vary the friction level far too much.
You can compare one manufacturers compounds but you can't compare across 'em.
Are they the same as a lot of other french setups, just have a pair of top hat brass bushes on the bottom?
I used to make them for similar links on the MA boxes, I can take a look if they're they same I probably have some on the shelf, I used to have Oilite replacements for the bottom of the...
For me, personally, anything at all that has to be bent or flexed out to clean up, gets chopped out to thick, sound metal and replaced, you'll never get it quite back right because the metal stretches, especially when it's thin and corroded.
The only exception is when I work on classics/vintage...
Yeah, but the graphene is just marketing, they're very careful what they say in the wording if you check it - it's like all these products that slap a bit of graphite in (which contains natural minute traces of graphene) - then slap the graphene word over it, it's dishonest and misleading at best.
Yeah, endurance pads are really designed to be kept in a fairly tight temperature range - not too cold and not too hot - because outside of that range the lubricants in the pads don't work properly and you get a lot of wear, pickup, etc.