Recent content by Woznaldo

I’m no expert here but, the default answer used to be ‘replace the shaft’. That said, I’m not sure how easy they are to source these days. There are some brands to avoid depending on who you speak to though. I’m sure someone with recent experience will chime in.

More info required but, if it’s for the golf, it should be in another section. You new post should include what year/Mk you have and what model (R, GTI, TFSI, etc). What you use the car for? Daily, a bit of track work, dedicated track car?

I’d seek out Shockworks in Melbourne. They have no off-the-shelf items. You let them know what the car will be used for, any aero devices being used, weight and distribution etc and they will make a set for you. If they’ve never done a Clio it might take a little longer but, definitely an...

Hi All, I’m going to bump this thread as I’m currently in a situation where Ph1 172 shafts seem like the obvious option and are what I was planning to use. I’ve been building a 5 GTT Hillclimb car for a while and I’ve been doing a lot of work on the suspension. In particular, I’ve opted for a...

It’ll be interesting to see how it actually failed. If I was the supplier I’d seek to get hold of the upright assembly to figure it out, that way improvements to the kit or installation procedures can be made.

Looks like Roll Centre Correction Kit failure on Jay’s 172! Bloody lucky at Cadwell!

In the end I had to remove the module, remove the motor cover and manually push the glass up high enough to release the glass from the regulator and the fully remove the Regulator Motor. Once off I tested the motor and all was good. The module is not the easiest thing to test with those small pins!

So when PIN 6 receives 12v, the windows should also power UP?

Do I need to supply PIN-6 with 12v to simulate the body computer? Nothing seems to be working at the moment.

I’ve been looking on the international race/rally part markets for a while and you’ll still pay 4000-6000 Euros for a Sadev ST85-17! It’s a fair price as you then have a fully customisable box with a heap of ratios and diff settings. Here’s hoping those numbers come in!

I'll add that power/torque of 300/300 would be (optimistically) the max.

At the risk of hijacking this, I've been looking at gearbox options for Hillclimb use on my GTT (with the C1J still). Firstly I understand that there are some things you just can't do without spending, but I'd like to look to the long term. Why ask here if I've got a C1J? The standard box is...

Coops, I’m tackling this job on my GTT. Three Trix bolts stripped on one side and one on the other. Not sure what to do with the old stub axle? Tempted to just cut it flush? May need an oxy torch to help out!

Depending on what tubing you’re using (Mild Steel CDS, 4130N or T45) there will be different costs. If you plan on racing I’d check if the series allows T45 or 4130N. Ultimately, the two largest costs are the fab work (cutting, bending and notching) and welding. Best to use TIG to minimise heat...

Caviat: You’ll need to make some assumptions about the body shell and attachment points when doing the FEA.