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How long before one of the dribblers thinks the coin for scale is the price of the item 🤔

So 24hrs into "this isn't going to turn into an underside restoration" I think we're probably there 😐 Cleaned up this bit of surface rust on the chassis cross member between the axle mounts I dropped the back box and heat shield, the forward most heat shield mount was very scabby, basically...

Yeah there's an amount of bitumen type underseal on mine which I assume is factory. Our road conditions don't remove it, it just turns into a dirty mess, and does a great job of hiding rust creeping underneath it.

I've got a couple of spare old calipers in a box in the garage, I might strip them down as a side quest this week while I'm waiting for my paint to turn up and make a tool for compressing the Belleville washers, it can't be that hard

Spent a few hours in the garage this morning, got the brakes stripped off the old axle, I need to decide what I'm doing with the calipers, either get them blasted and powder coated then rebuild them myself, or just send them out and save myself the hassle. I'll get a price for getting them done...

Those two stubs for the heater matrix bypass need loads cutting off them, I think I shortened mine by at least 50%, pretty much just enough left to get the hose clamp on

Managed to rope the Mrs in this morning to get the axle out. Need to strip the brakes off it then that can go. There's no horrors under there but theres a bit of surface rust on the chassis around the axle mounts, I'm going to get that all wire wheeled off and rust converted, I'll just...

I've ordered the proper ones from Renault, they're £13.80+vat each which stings, but I'd rather have the right ones.

Started removing the rear axle this afternoon. Got the wheels off, rear ARB off, handbrake cables, brake hoses and rear dampers disconnected. Springs out and axle supported on stands. As expected, Despite being thoroughly wire brushed and soaked in plusgas, four of the six rear axle bracket...

Kind of an update, I've been holding off starting on the car because I needed to build a workbench, which meant having the car out of the garage. Got some wood delivered this afternoon Started butchering it And ended up with this, it's a 2000x600 worktop, and the top is 1040mm off the...

The starter motor on the Mrs car (2017 Volvo V40) died last weekend, I've got home start cover so called the RAC. The lad agreed it was the starter and offered a recovery to a garage, but being Sunday at 1800 he couldn't take the keys as they have to be handed over to someone apparently...

Sorry what.. you barebacked the old gearbox back home in the boot? No wood, thick blanket etc?

Ate typ200 is exactly the same stuff without the dye

Can't comment on the clutches but if I could rewind I'd definitely have done a hydraulic conversion when it was in bits

I've had a couple of hours in the garage this weekend, Got the stub axles painted, used brush on hammerite smooth satin in the end, it's a surprisingly close match to the black powder coating. Got the Powerflex black series axle bushes in and the brackets on, then got the stub axles, 1°...

I think it was the guy that had a Z4, then fairly quickly bought and sold an RB 182, I remember seeing someone who's name matches his username selling bits of it on FB.. I might be completely wrong and slandering an innocent man though,

I wouldn't run that bottom end unless I was turbo skint and needed it back together because it was my only transport. As already said I'd be concerned about the rod bearings, the cam is scrap and there's some decent gouging in the cylinders right where you don't want it. It's pretty telling...

You've never lived.

Owatrol Polytrol is really good for restoring black plastics too, especially ones that far gone

A full size spare would be nice, I tend to just keep a plug kit, electric compressor and a can of tyre foam in my cars though, it's enough to get you home 99% of the time I've only had one proper blow out, luckily that car did have a space saver

it would definitely appeal to a wider audience with a standard interior in, but sourcing a nice one and fitting it vs what you would get for the seats and cage separately might not be worth your time. It's a really nice car and it'd be a shame to break it but that's the only way to maximise...

A Luk or Valeo clutch kit is £100 on autodoc, you'd be mad to not change it while the box is out.

So get both wheels off the ground, put it in gear, start it with the clutch in and prove it will drive in each gear without making crunchy noises

You get the box into reverse by pushing the selector up/in and back. Stop your mates from touching your car 😂, it's good to get into the habit of putting any fasteners you remove into small zip lock bags that you can label, or into plastic meal prep trays. It'll save you major headaches in future

You're jumping in two feet first for probably no reason at all, it seems like your 'mechanic' friend is selling you down the river. Whatever state of unnecessarily dismantled it currently is, it's going to be significantly quicker, cheaper and easier to do as we all have recommended which is...

So the gearbox was fine, and the only thing that's happened is your brother was rowing the gearstick about while stationary with the engine off and that's what's leading you to believe there's a complete failure of the box? And you haven't yet disconnected the linkage from the box and...

Stop their PIP now.

I didn't take it that way mate, TBH it's piqued my interest, I was in the garage last night looking at it. With the axle level you can pick up the edge of two of the four stub axle bolts holes at a time with a laser level, and the laser passes through and picks up the edge of the corresponding...

Camber and Toe.. not caster, obviously 🙄

The OEM manual only has specs for camber and caster which can be set with shims. If you mean has the centre point of the stub axle moved in the X or Y axis relative to eachother or the centre point of their axle pivot bush, that definitely can be measured, but I doubt it will have shifted...