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When was the oil last changed?

You need a network and infrastructure test i'm afraid chap.

Solid lights are normally component/connection faults. Ideally though it needs a network test to see what's occurring when it is actually occurring. With it being a 1.2 16v I'd say set fire to it or change the short engine loom (they're around £140 new).

Follow the wiring and look for damage/corrosion/shorts. If all is good there you will need to start testing components

Not that it really matters BUT on a Renault, Cylinder No.1 is flywheel side

See I was a huge Android fan but after KitKat it went properly shite. I went back to iOS and deleted the album as I can't stand that f**king Bono c**t! Android isn't as open source as it once was and Google are slowly but surely forcing there vision upon its users. I guess it's horses for...

Requires new keys or UCH. Not the end of the world but needs correctly diagnosing to save wasting £300-500

Just wobbled it up/down and side-to-side like a man. It'll pop on eventually, unless you've completely fucked up the alignment.

That cup is for the alignment tool (which comes with the clutch from Valeo but Renault removes it). You don't actually need it and a Valeo "Blue" tool will fit in to the crank web perfectly. It'll most likely be the splines as Jaff said.

Yes, they are such a prick it isn't funny!

RA-07/RA-08 markings refer to the application part number "X65 with a non-Cup/Cup bolt fitment" and I think the above site has it a bit wrong. These are still "BR" Series and not "RA" spec units i'm afraid and it is confusing. As Sam mentions above, you really don't want to go full mental with...

We do them for £576.75+VAT (£692.10) either fitted or shipped. Mick

I'm pretty sure you can (LoLz) but you're not there yet #needsproperturbo

I do it differently @Dan@SJM I disconnect the column/rack Union first and then remove the flow/return lines from the rack... Then I drop the subframe. Let's be honest, most of the cars would benefit hugely from a PAS fluid service.

The NTK/NGK are brilliant but if you're patient, you can get the OE Bosch unit on eBay for around £50. Euros sell the Bosch for around £70 IIRC to

Please, don't do the wheels gold. Williams steels in silver not an option? I've just had a set off Matt Brown for mine. Just looking for a nice set of center caps for them.

Mine has just gone in for bodywork and a full hit of '432. After that, I'm taking all the running gear and pipe work off so I can under seal the shiz outta it. Nice to see other people doing Valvers for the love of them, rather than trying to ride the trend of doing them up thinking they'll...

The BC's also employ a 3rd locking ring specifically for adjusting ride height rather than adjusting pre-load. The thing I also like about them is they can be rebuilt by places like BG motorsport... But as the inserts are pretty cheap new, why bother rebuilding.

166bhp FTW - 65l all day! (I blame your mapping lol)

Start by having the car plugged in fella and properly looked at. It'll be something simple.

Mint! I love mine and genuinely cannot believe more people with Clios haven't purchased them. I don't think I've ever had to set mine to max hard. I'm normally around +12 on track and love the feedback but I am on a custom setup.

That looks perfect. How does it handle being pressed hard in the corners? I've tried to keep my ride height sensible so as not to dramatically mess with the factory geo.

Ride height is personal preference much like taste is women. My cup is around FR +597mm and RR +605mm

It is becoming more and more common Gaz, especially on the ones that have had a hard life. You have to drive them a bit too hard to get the best from them IMO which I don't think the F4 is really built for. I had two Laguna II's, one brand new, and neither really ever let me down... They were...

I believe it is because most businesses have had to update there websites in order to make them more "device" friendly. RUK's and RS's main sites have been done but I'm guessing some of the old "bells and whistles" pages like the heritage site haven't been given the same priority. Maybe get in...

The spring goes toward the cylinder head and on the 1.2, it's part of a moulded unit... You cannot get that installed incorrectly.

Sadly, yes... they are a pain in the ass of a car IMO I'd buy it but you're a bit too far off for me really.

Breaking it will net you more cash but it is messing about and you have it sat around looking s**t for a while. Re-engine if you like the car or sell it on entirely

PMS is absolutely perfect but it is pricey. Joints are stunning, welds are quality and it does exactly what is claims. I never used any sealant and It must have been on/off my car 5 or 6 times. I'm debating about putting one on the Cup but, I would advise you get the silenced variant for a road...

That would be awesome, thank you