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On what car?

Exactly this! Was just going to write that. Lol, love these pish talk threads.

Never tested mine for long before changing my setup and its still not completed but on a trackday I did do, oil temps never went above 100 and I was giving it a good go. The cooler is fitted on the bottom rad hose and fits nicely there. It does heat up the oil quicker as well. Subarus use a...

Cut the connector off the OE fan and bought a new connector and used that.

Neither does boost!

Was thinking this myself.

Location - mine is on the passenger suspension turret. The catch tank connects to the breather coming out the oil separator. The whole point is so that the breather does not feed back into your induction hose. Just fit a filter or run a hose under the car with a filter on it.

I went orange for mine and love it.

660 will need changed more frequently than 600 but will have a higher boiling point.

Motul 600 for me. Never boiled it yet with some 30min sessions.

@NorthloopCup Mark, would ttv be able to make a custom billet flywheel. I'm looking to do a focus rs box conversion and will need an rs flywheel with f4r bolt spacing and custom offset.

That's pretty toasty indeed. Lol Any data after you fitted it?

What size of cooler do you have Mark? Guess the straight cut box got pretty hot?

Also, a thermosatic sandwich plate would be a waste of money and would also not allow the oil to heat up faster by preventing the oil getting the benefit of heat transfer from the water which will heat up faster so less engine wear, etc.

I do, but only done running in miles of the last engine and a track day with it. Water temp sat about 95 on track and 90 odd on the road. Oil temp never went above 100. They work well and far easier to plumb in than an air cooler. You also have less chance of losing all your oil f a stone was...

Wouldn't use that grade on a daily driver in winter that's for sure. Much increased engine wear. The most a laminova cool the oil is 90 deg.

Glad you got it ok. That was quicker than I expected too. The linkage was set up perfectly for my car but would be interesting to see how much yours differs.

45deg is not uncommon and most aftermarket manifolds will be that. It should not be more than that and obviously the lower this angle the better. Itb's will have a 45deg injector angle but further away from the head. V8 dragsters in the US commonly use and injector angle of 45deg. What's so...

Oil squirters are on Subaru cdb's for cooling as they don't have cooling jackets round the cylinders. All other blocks do and so the squirters aren't needed. Never heard of anyone removing them from cdb builds.

Plates have to be 120cm2 and at least 3mm thick. Bolts have to be M8 grade 8.8 or above.

Totally agree with this but one issue is when using a keyed crank pulley from a megane 225 and the rotation to equalise everything is not possible. I went for one for my turbo build so had to miss this step.

Y You need to prime them by submersing in diesel with them sitting vetical. Guess you'll be starting again then if you're checking them.

Just make sure you have good oil in your box to the correct grade then abuse it!

Aftermarket as is what make. If its a valeo you've saved yourself $600 bucks. Seems expensive though a dealer charging £1000 to change a clutch. At that price, I'd be learning and making the time. lol

Sounds like the tensioner has gone or something has got caught in the belt causing it jump off the pulley.

It will sound a lot quieter once turbod but still sounds good. It's a decated yozza I have and was a lot noisier when it was NA.

Is the catalyst ok? Take it to a scrappy and see what they offer. They were going for £50 no that long ago.

Its genuine, why would it not be? OP, theres just not much demand for a standard 172 Cup Cat so the price will reflect this.

£50 in scrap.

Link would be good. Love reading up on stuff like that.