Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
The other giveaway is Jim’s has a drift spec jdm super dildo gearknob too,
Seriously though I need to see this car, get a Saturday meet organised at Sherburn Jim
I’ve been for a look round Jim’s bmw and say 100% it not been drifted, the previous owner was very safety conscious about the car rolling away when parked up going by the added handbrake :smile:
Spring rates too high for your soft wallowing tyres fitted to the rear, remove the rear anti roll bar to reduce roll stiffness and try again to see if it’s improved,
500 lb + springs aren’t ideal in cold conditions with squishy sidewall road tyres
Red line= Original SM intake and cat cams 438
Green line = lightly ported RS stamped 182 lower manifold and 438 cam
The car was much quicker on the standard inlet over the SM (Hillclimb results to back it up, not arse dyno opinion).
if it only does it when the engine's warm yes possibly crank sensor,
if it's sporadic and the immobiliser light is on its the uch
try a crank sensor first as it's a £8 part and takes 10 minutes to swap, york motor factors will stock it too
Just watching this video would suggest to me that the head bolts don't have enough stretch in them causing the block to crack in the thread casting area due to heat expansion between the head and block
Probably, but I think they forgot to factor in “driven by ham fisted Neanderthals” variable into the equation...
Only kidding, heat cycles are what people are thinking is the issue
Not so much of an issue this time of year Dan, but I would look into an enclosed air box for the filter to keep summer intake temps as low as possible,
something like a ITG maxogen from a Audi TT.