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Blurriness will be solely down to the shutter speed, anything under 1/60th handheld and even over this can be blurry at times, it isn't anything to do with the ISO. That's the problem when indoors with a kit lens, they just don't let enough light in, a 50mm F1.8 would be ideal for that, it'd let...
They look like fairly normal beginner images tbh, I’d try some other subjects like landscapes and cars too, they’re easier for a beginner to get right, pets are really tricky to get good photos of lol, they never stop moving.
Also, a fast 50 would suit these type of images, so ie. 50mm F1.8...
The D3000 isn’t exactly known for it’s ISO performance, my D40 was terrible over ISO 800 in good conditions, never mind places and things with dark tones, so 1600 will be very noisy.
I shot these using James Bryan’s 5D Mark II and his new 135mm F2L, that lens is absolutely awesome, this photo doesn’t do the DoF justice either with it being shot from such a distance and with that background, anyway-
Two 182s by Niall97, on Flickr
Clio 182 by Niall97, on Flickr
You’re using f22, this won’t let much light into the camera and will also cause diffraction to occur which will cause the image to be softer. So there are the quick fixes to your problems, just open that aperture, bring the ISO down and you’ll be sorted.
Some from Chester at the weekend-
Curvy Path by Niall97, on Flickr
Uniformity by Niall97, on Flickr
Leaping Squirrel by Niall97, on Flickr
Red Phone Box by Niall97, on Flickr
Chester by Niall97, on Flickr
Fiat 500 by Niall97, on Flickr
Yeah I agree about the motorsport stuff, and the matter of reach is a problem too. But looking at the two cameras in question the D600 isn’t going to be miles off the D7100. Tbh it looks like the OP’s best option is the D7100, but if it were me I’d be wanting something that is better for static...
That was his point, Wick :) JPG doesn’t make a huge difference in most shooting situations, I only shoot raw for things like Landscape that will need a some tweeking, so full frame is still advantageous in any file format.
The images from full frame cameras just have a special look to them, something that is hard to explain. I’ve used a Canon 5D Mark II on quite a few occasions with the same Sigma 50mm F1.4 as I use on my D7000 and the images were in another league; the bokeh was smoother and more pleasing, the...
I’d get the Tamrons, the 17-50 gives you that 2.8 constant aperture and the 70-300 gives you better performance than the Nikon version, it’s a no brainer for me.
A few from Santa Pod last weekend-
GTR by Niall97, on Flickr
Camaro SS by Niall97, on Flickr
Stunt Rider by Niall97, on Flickr
Santa Pod sunset by Niall97, on Flickr
Drag Muscle Sunset by Niall97, on Flickr
GTR by Niall97, on Flickr
You can buy them separately, I did the same thing and bought a cheap one for my kit lens at first and it was fine tbh, go for it and see how you find it.
Right JHead, basically you can use it to remove the reflection or 'shine' off any surface to a certain degree. For car shots there will be no glare or reflection on the paint or windows when the polariser is rotated to the point when you see the reflections disappear and it's just a plain...
I've had a lens and two Camera Bodies from Digital rev with no problems and great service, the products always come heavily bible wrapped giving lots of protection, they even throw in some freebees with some things like my last camera (only small things like a screen protector, hand grip and...
CPL’s are crucial for daytime car shots, they look so much better-the colour is deeper and the interior is revealed from beneath that glare from the sky. You can also get a cool rainbow effect in headlights sometimes which looks brilliant.
Haha I have to say, I love how you’re recreating real life scenarios with lego, it’s better than the standard taking a picture of lego’s in different places.