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I was going to say. Being a full floating pulley system there is a potential for the timing to be knocked out upon undoing the crank pulley. I know that on Ford Duratec and Sigma engines it is recommended to retime the engine after replacing the pulley.

IIRC the Renault one tends to be the cheapest anyway. From what I recall the aftermarket belt kits tend to have a belt that is a little too small for the application, which makes the belt a pain to fit. It may be a little thicker as well. It is something I have seen on an old Mondeo V6 as...

Try finding S1 RS Turbo parts in a scrap yard or anywhere for that matter. They simply do not exist although they probably didn't around a decade ago! Well, they do, but have now become mega scarce. Even some of the parts I bought from breakers have already gone up in price :/.

For the thumb grips I'd get the steering wheel retrimmed via Snappy. Once a few other cosmetic jobs are done on mine the steering wheel will be being sent of to him. He can retrim the wheel better than when it left the factory for less than the thumb grips :). As for the Lambda sensors, if...

I ended up doing the same thing on my Clio, albeit the service history was very comprehensive. The belts were due on age 3 months after I bought the car (the car had only covered 40k since its previous belt change from Mark Fish, and I was tempted to risk it for another year but thought better...

I take it that the rim which was previously on the driver's side is now not losing any pressure on the passenger side? I am at a loss really as for what to suggest. When exactly are you checking the tyre pressure? Immediately after driving the car, a good few hours after, the morning after...

The coolant level will rise a little as things warm up, moreso if an airlock is present. I am probably talking crap here but bear with me :). IMHO most Clios will form an airlock behind the thermostat (on the rad side, not the engine) since there is nowhere really for the air to go until the...

I did mine as you said but without revving it as much. I topped the car up to the Max and then saw the water level go beyond the Max as the car warmed up. I did think it may overflow TBH! It took a good 30 minutes for the fan to cut in, or possibly even longer! Once the 'stat opened up the...

When some of you see this photo you will be aware of possibly what job I did on the Clio today!: Yup, my washer jets had packed up completely the other month! I remember a friend telling me just how much of a pain it was to change, with him giving me some great advice on the way. I also saw...

From what I read it is not the pops and bangs that ruin the valves but the sustained revving of the engine. I recall that many Clio racers use stronger valves for this very reason.

Are ET36-8s available in them?

I'd say the chances are they were not done up correctly! I'd be checking that out ASAP if I were in your shoes! Does the timing belt cover not form part of the engine mount?

For the aux belt, many including Mick have warned to only go Renault unless you wish to spend alot longer fitting the belt. What are you looking to spend? I'm umming and ahhing over mine. If I had any sense I'd keep the car!

From what a few traders have said on here, well Fred @ BTM, he was saying that there was no comparision between the chassis of a Trophy and that of a tweaked 182.

Damn, I was thinking of changing the belt myself and even making up a tool to allow me to change belt and idlers! I do have a welder after all...

My spare boot well and sometimes underneath my seat is like a monsoon ATM. I shall take a look at these seals :).

A great HU choice. I was so tempted to go with one of these or the 88RS but I fancied iPod connectivity and Bluetooth, moreso the latter. In the end I went with the Alpine 9887R for my RST and the newer CDE-178BT for the Clio. I prefer the look of the former though, but the functionality of...

The RS3s seem like a great tyre for the money it has to be said. Not many tyres can touch them in the wet. However they are a little so so in the dry and the wear rate is not fantastic. I was going to go for the PS3s on my front Turbines but the shop only had RS3s, Bridgestone Turanzas and...

AFAIK no Clio II came with drop links. They did however have bushes to replace the drop links. The photo you show is one derivative of the bushes ; these seem to be fitted to the smaller engined cars. The 1*2s came with this type: The dealers order the wrong ones as well ; It's taken me...

Another thing to bear in mind is to get a genuine Renault belt kit. They seem to be cheaper than ECP and apparently are easier to fit as the belt is not too thick.

Just how bad is the bodywork? Do you have pics? Also, can you do some of the work yourself? Alot of those faults don't look that serious TBH. Also (vulture mode) if you do wish to sell PM me :).

I take it that the laps were slower on the NS2-Rs? What kind of times have you had out of the various tyres you have tried? I admit that they feel like a great tyre on my RST. It has certainly impressed a few people that I have taken out in it! If you have the PS3s I'd use them :)...

If I am not on holiday I shall be up there :).

I'd go with the AD08Rs in your position with the lack of miles being covered.

How much would you want for the injectors? I'm wondering if the issue is a MAP sensor fault or possibly even a wiring problem only shown when the car warms up. What code reader did you use?

How bad are the CLIP copies? How pricey is CLIP to buy? I don't mind using a laptop interface. I had VCDS on the Passat and ForScan for the Fords and both were superb in diagnosing faults, better than the garage's Snap On Solus IMHO. However, they are car specific.

So bar the lowering, something like this: It has changed now however to having orange/red Turbines! They are not my first choice of colour but it is different but great driving experience still (slightly comfier and with no loss of turn in!), in addition to the tyres being significantly...

From a non 182/Trophy owner I'd ask whether you wish to modify a car alot. This IMO will get you closer to the answer you want.

To see if the car has failed without removing it get a rubber mallet and gently tap it. If it is rattles alot it's shot. What exactly was the code that you had come up? It could be as simple as a vacuum leak or a coolant temperature sensor issue. IME most lambda errors say something like...

If it were me I'd either go genuine or for a Nissens radiator :). If you want pricey radiators try £330 for a Porker 944 rad (or £230 (maybe more now) for an NRF rad (Read a Porsche with with the insignia scrubbed off))), or £550 for a Misubishi 3000GTO radiator and they are near enough dealer...