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Thanks for confirming, I'll leave that for a future mod then and just stay original for now. Cheers.

Anyone on here run their motor in std production class hillclimbing/sprints? Would PMS top mounts (as I'm thinking of adding the strut brace too) be allowed, in guessing they are classed as "spherical or similar metal joints"? Otherwise I'll have to purchase some standard ones unless there are...

Good advice, it's one of the main jobs next on my list and I've bought most of the addition parts suggested above to do at the same time, including the water pump. Rocket cover seal check is a good point, but I'm not sure what you mean by the "exhaust nut"

Cheers. I've PM'd you regarding the subframe. Thank God something is right lol, thanks for confirming. Oh yeah, would love to meet this guy again for a chat :mad:. I know I bought a cheap tatty car - but for a good reason, but it was supposed to be original!! Anyhow, I'll get this sorted and...

So the only thing I'm unsure of without taking them out and measuring them are the driveshafts, unless their all the same length. The tie rods and ends, and ball joints I'm refreshing anyway.

Look like the cup ones with the extra castor... Good, makes it easier ;-)

That's what I'm thinking, I'd rather get it back to standard. Although I thought the cup has the wishbone holes in a different position, so not quite the same as the std 172? Thanks for all the advice all.

Well I guess this is conclusive then.... ....so what does that mean for my set up, only a narrower track at the front or more draw backs?

I'm hoping your right, but those wishbone hole spacings are worrying me, and I'll need to measure the lengths of the drive shafts etc. The hubs are correct, and the castor on the wishbones look correct to. Regarding the ph1 ARB from Budgie (and BTW thanks for the offer), correct me if I'm...

I was looking at the wishbone mounting holes last night after reading something on here, but I couldn't determine if the holes were in the correction location or not. The information/pictures to hand weren't clear enough. I'll have another look tonight. Cheers.

Thanks, I'll check tonight.

What's the tell tale signs between a 172 cup and non sport?

Never really drove it much between buying it and starting work on it in the garage so can't say really. You're right, they didn't look right, actually it looked to short.

Thanks guys, off to the CS marketplace I go then ;-). ...If there's anyone reading this that has a genuine one please pm me.

Yeah that's what I fear, bloody cowboy previous owner. With verniers it's ~23mm along the body and ~25.5mm across the width if the flat piece. If you ends are different then that's enough for me. To be honest, they didn't look a snug fit at the ends before I took it off.

Had the correct bush (sleeve) over it and braced via the strap to the wishbone as per any other RS. The other side didn't have any bolt left in. (Pics below). Just wanna check it's still the correct ARB before reconditioning it, otherwise I'll have to source the correct one. Any advice much...

Can't for the life of me find a comparison pic on the forums or the net. Just striping the front corners down for a refresh, detached the ARB, pulled the mullered bush off the end of the ARB to find an old rusted nut and bolt, and the ends of the ARB being flat. I'm now suspicious, is a flat...

Hi cs_dave , any pics of your set up available, I'm thinking the same as West's can't get hold of the cup rear lines anymore and I need to replace all of my rears from the balance backwards? Cheers

Hey thanks allot for doing that, wasn't sure if I could get away with 3 lengths then, seemed so and I can put the scraps on the passenger side .... Ta!

Certainly a neat solution.

Need to order some but not near the car to measure up. Could you tell me how many 9" x 33" lengths (common order length) you used, as your coverage is good? Ta.

See your point, but the Renault nuts have built in washers that are curved and then compress flat when tightened.

When I originally looked in to this for my 10mm spacers, it was recommended that new bolts were not needed, originals suffice, anything over 10mm then you do definitely need new ones. Mine tighten fine on to the nyloc plus a little nut loc added too... Although I have been doubting this is...

Eh?

Where did you get your bolt from, proving difficult to find one on ebay?

So I'm not the only unlucky bugger then. You did use a high tensile bolt of at least 10.9 rating didn't you?

With only the ARB on yes it is definitely long enough, but IMHO there isn't enough thread to put a nut on securely and satisfy my paranoia ;)

That's what I thought first, and probably what I'm going to end up doing anyway. Although the recoil product is more than adequate, for this situation a longer bolt and a nyloc nut + washer is cheaper. Plus as I'm fitting an ARB, I need a longer bolt.

I believe the bolts on Renault are metric, so for completeness and future reference, here's the recoil kit I'm going to buy to fix this.... "Recoil 35128 M12 Pro XL Series Metric Thread Repair Kit by Recoil" http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GSPDE90/?tag=cliospnet01-21

@Mike@Rentech Thanks allot for the recommendation, I now see light at the end of the tunnel again ;) 'Dave' @ Thread Wizard is a top bloke, we decided it was too far away to make it cost effective for me to have him come so far, so he preceded to talk me through sourcing the kit and and how to...