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most clusters can be adjusted for what they are reading or calibrated but if the range of the sensor is different to the range of the gauge then it will never work, i recently had to do a lot of chopping to get a after market fuel gauge fitted in the cluster on my ol chevy and had to replace the...

the sensors may be running different resistances mate, cant always just chop and change clusters, gauges and sensors are usually paired, there may be enough trim to correct any error, but you will have to fiddle

i just use a big pully/bearing puller

use them on the landrover, excellent tires, got 110k km out of the last set, still had 7mm tread left when we changed them, good road holding as well

id get it on a obd reader and check what the sensors are putting out... check the lambdas, map sensor, cts, its sensors...

took a look at my altenator, only one wire is going to the plug... if you can, get a obd reader and see what the sensors are reading, sounds like its over fueling on start up but without seeing the actual values, it can be anyones guess... mine had a similar thing because of corrosion on some...

Altinator should be putting out around 14 volts, 14.7 is a tad high, Ill have to look on my altinator but im fairly certain that there is two wires that should be connected to that plug, although i could be wrong, and the green bit may just be a cap for the terminal... Oil on the air filter...

Sounds fairly intermittent, check all the earth straps, and you may want to do a drain check to see how much the car is drawing on the battery when everything is off, a low battery can cause all sorts of wierd and wonderfull electric faults, ive often had the tracker pull down the battery over...

could be many things, vacuum leak, bad map sensor, tdc sensor, similar thing happend on mine and it was a bad connection of the connector to the computer... could well be fuel starvation as well although that would also cause surging while driving under load and probable miss fires... could be a...

the lambdas read the oxygen content, the post cat lambda should be at a steady voltage if the cat is working properly, however if the cat is toast then the post and pre cat voltage graphs will start to look the same indicating that the cat is dead, that will bring up a light (sometimes) if you...

does the car have a sun roof? thats a common place for water to get in, the noise could be a dephaser on its way out, if you rev the car does the noise go away at 2000 - 2500 rpm?

yep that's low cat efficiency...

can check the tensioners on both belts, cam belt one is a bit more difficult to get to and you will have to remove some stuff to get to it however you can see if there is tension in the cam belt by taking the cam sprocket cover off...

the fluid can overheat, there is special fluid available... or in the extreme case you can look at doing the epas conversion

mine also shows 60 degrees after its been standing hot for a while, might be normal... although sometimes the revs at idle drop quite low when starting while still hot... do you have a similar issue?

why dont you run a stand alone level meter and gauge?

could be an air leak on the manifold somewhere, recently fixed a leak on my map sensor which was letting the pressure reading go up a few psi fooling the computer into thinking it was under higher load thus richening the mix... since you have a obd reader... what are your map readings for a few...

before throwing more money at it, get yourself a fault scanner or take it for a scan... that should point you in the right direction

could be a number of things mate, if possible get a code reader and have a look at the live data and trouble codes... if you know which cylinder is misfiring then try swap the injectors around and see if the missfire follows, can also be a air leak into the manifold or a dodgey map sensor...

as far as i know its ecm controlled through fueling, there a hot and a cold map... sounds like you have a dirty throttle cable sheath or a weak return spring on the throttle body/ seriously dirty throttle body... ive had it on older carbed cars where the throttle cable freys inside the sheath...

according to haynes manual its initially torqued to 30 mn and then angle torqued another 84 degrees

a dirty map sensor gave me similar symptoms

standard idle is around 750 rpm mate

should be the same amount of movement for each gear, if you want to re align it theres a few ways to do it mentioned in this thread: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/gearbox-linkage-alignment.763492/ is there any crunching or difficulty in changing gears?

U can get generic fans of almost any size, just bang another one on

easy way to check is take the oil filler cap off and swing it, if the cams turn then the belt has not broken...

they are normally quite rough when cold, other things to check would be the coolant temp sensor, earth straps, map sensor, lambda sensors, if she runs fine when hot then its probably just being french...

check the earth straps, there are 4 of them in the engine bay, one from the battery to the pannel work, one to the gbox, one to the starter, and one by the brake fluid reservoir

epas system seems to switch off when steering on the spot while not moving sometimes... could be the motor failing or a dirty position sensor, since you are losing engine power as well id think it was the motor possibly shorting out putting bigger load on the altinator ?

sounds like a lose earth strap or lose connection on the uch, can test the altinator by testing what voltage its putting out while running, should be 14 volts, other than that, give all the earth straps, relays, plugs a clean...